Recipes

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Ramps are one of those items that seem so appealing at the market but can be a challenge to use when you get them home. This dish solves the problem. Because the recipe comes from Rachael Ray, who made her name teaching a generation to get dinner on the table in 30 minutes, it’s quick to make once you have the ramps blanched. The pesto comes together fast, so you can make it while the pasta is boiling. The creaminess of the ricotta tempers the ramps, which can vary in their pungency. Pink peppercorns are berries, not true peppercorns. They add a lovely look to the finished pasta and bring a more delicate fruitiness and a quieter heat than black pepper; if you can't find them, black pepper will do just fine. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Green tomatoes are either nearly impossible to find or in such abundance that farmers at the greenmarket almost give them away. This recipe was inspired by Rachael Ray, who gets green tomatoes from a wholesaler when they’re scarce or has a favorite farmer at the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan set some aside during the late spring and early summer when they’re abundant. You can adjust the amount of peppers to control the heat. And red tomatoes work fine if you can’t find green ones. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The celebrated pastry chef Dolester Miles learned to bake in a small town called Bessemer, outside Birmingham, Ala. She took the tastes of desserts passed down from her mother and her aunt, and re-worked them with the techniques she has picked up in her more than 30 years at the Birmingham restaurants Highlands Bar & Grill, Chez Fonfon and Bottega. This lemon meringue tart, reminiscent of a Southern icebox cake but with a French feel, is a perfect example. She stirs in white chocolate to give the curd a luscious mouth feel, and finishes it with a drift of soft Swiss meringue toasted with a blowtorch. A few seconds under the broiler will work, too. She cautions cooks never to take their eyes off the tart during that final step. “It’ll get away from you fast,” she said. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a rich, special-occasion cake that takes the traditional Southern coconut cake to another level, with ground toasted pecans in the batter and an easy-to-make Chantilly cream for frosting. It has become the signature dessert for Dolester Miles, who serves slices over a little puddle of crème anglaise at Chez Fonfon and Bottega, and sometimes at the Highlands Bar & Grill, the Birmingham, Ala., restaurants owned by Frank and Pardis Stitt. Assembly can be a challenge, so she suggests building the cake by stacking the delicate slabs of cake with filling in between each layer into a deep, round cake pan, then slipping it into the refrigerator for about an hour. The filling acts like a delicious glue. When the cake is inverted and unmolded, the edges have an even, professional appearance. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a simple dip with infinite possibilities. The classic version, called gzik, comes from the Wielkopolska province in Poland. It’s built from a farmer’s cheese called twarog, which is essentially a dry version of what Americans know as cottage cheese. The cheese, which comes molded into a thick disc, is mashed with a fork, then loosened with a few tablespoons (or more, depending on the dryness of the cheese) of yogurt or cream. Radishes and some members of the allium family, most often chives or onions, add flavor; dill or other herbs sometimes make an appearance. The classic way to eat it is on boiled or baked potatoes still in their jackets, but gzik on buttered rye bread is a popular breakfast dish. Although you can use any style of cottage cheese for this recipe, smaller curds work better than large because the dip should be slightly smoother than cottage cheese.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Clams work their way into plenty of dishes in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico, which is where the chef Pati Jinich picked up this recipe for pasta con salsa picante de chorizo y almejas. The dish, which she featured on an episode of her PBS show, “Pati’s Mexican Table,” is a nod to the prized clams that are harvested in and around the coastal lagoons on Mexico’s Pacific shores. It pays homage to the surf-and-turf dishes in Tijuana, where cooks find seemingly endless ways to mix meat and seafood on a single plate. The dish takes its aggressive heat from chorizo and chiles de arbol, but it can be dialed down by substituting ½ teaspoon or less of red-pepper flakes. The beer in the dish is Ms. Jinich’s nod to the craft-beer boom in Baja. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This nutty, spicy salsa with the tang of vinegar is from Veracruz, Mexico, where it’s called salsa macha. It has long been a favorite of Pati Jinich, the Mexican-born chef who lives in Washington, D.C. Her version comes together fast, and offers a lot of character and versatility. Use it to liven up roasted vegetables or grilled meats. It’s especially great on lamb chops and skirt steak, or even baked potatoes served with sour cream and cheese. The salsa lasts for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator; the solids will sink to the bottom, leaving a deeply flavored oil that can add a little muscle to sauces or a finishing touch to other dishes. You can use other nuts in place of the peanuts, or a mix of nuts and sunflower or pumpkin seeds. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This stripped-down, built-for-flavor recipe, adapted from “Meathead: The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling” by Meathead Goldwyn, is for people who don’t brine, forgot to brine or didn’t leave enough time to salt a bird and leave it in the refrigerator for 24 hours. It keeps the white meat moist and boosts its flavor with a rich, simple jus of stock fortified with soy sauce and deglazed pan drippings. The idea comes from Southern barbecue pit masters who shred or chop the meat from a pork shoulder and wet it with vinegar, black pepper and maybe a little tomato. The turkey is roasted slowly to keep the meat fibers from seizing up, and the breast meat is shredded or sliced so thin it falls apart. The meat is then dunked in the jus and served in a dish deep enough to hold both meat and liquid. The thigh meat and legs can be served alongside on a separate platter. The next day, the jus-soaked meat and a little cup of extra jus make for a perfect turkey French dip. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

You need something to put out when people come over for a drink. Or when you need something savory in the afternoon when you wish someone was coming over for a drink. You can roll the batch into a couple of logs, freeze and slice and bake off a dozen or so at a time.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This recipe came to The Times from Doris Muramatsu, a musician with the band Girlyman. It takes about 15 minutes to make and is particularly terrific over ice cream with some spicy pecans chopped on top. It is also an easily made token of true friendship and cheer: pour some into small jars and give it to friends.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The spicing level is fairly forgiving on these pecans, which make a wonderful gift for the holidays or party snack. You can add more cayenne for heat or a little more sugar if you want them sweeter. The key points, though, are making sure they toast well but don't burn and using really good pecans, like Elliots from Georgia, which are stubbier and sweeter than the bigger, skinnier pecans that come from Texas and other Southwestern states (though they are delicious, too.) Ordering bulk pecans online helps keep the cost down.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Royal icing is the classic sweet glue that holds together gingerbread houses and provides a glossy medium for elaborate cookie decorations. Many recipes call for egg whites or cream of tartar or both, but meringue powder (available online or at specialty food stores) offers gloss, stability and creaminess without the use of raw eggs or other ingredients. This recipe was developed by Georganne Bell, a professional cookie-decorating teacher in Salt Lake City who doesn’t like traditional vanilla sugar cookies. The icing takes coloring easily, and pipes nicely from an icing bag or even a plastic bag with a corner snipped off. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

These are almost brownie-like in flavor, and remain slightly softer than many traditional sugar cookies. The recipe was developed by Georganne Bell, a professional cookie-decorating teacher in Salt Lake City who doesn’t like traditional vanilla sugar cookies. Unlike many sugar cookies, these don’t need to chill, and can be rolled out immediately after they are mixed. Avoid the temptation to add more flour (unless the dough is really sticky), or to use too much flour while rolling and cutting them, or the cookies will be dry. They don’t spread in the oven, so you can bake them close together. They are sturdy enough to decorate wildly with colored royal icing, but also taste good with just buttercream or a simple glaze of powdered sugar and water flavored with a little lemon juice or vanilla. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The beefy nature of goose legs makes them a good choice for this rich, slightly spicy braise, but duck legs work fine, too. The timing here is very forgiving. This recipe cooks on a stovetop, but you could also braise the meat in a slow cooker or an oven set to about 325 degrees. The key is to simmer the legs until the meat pulls easily from the bone. The luscious secret comes at the end, when the warm meat is tossed in melted fat. The end result is highly adaptable: Wrap it in a warm tortilla, serve it alongside rice and beans with some good salsa, or spoon it atop a bed of sturdy greens and eat it as a salad. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Wade Truong is the head chef at Kybecca in Fredericksburg, Va. He is also a skilled hunter who does his best to eat only wild game at home. As a result, his freezer always has a stash of goose and duck carcasses, which he turns into pho. Mr. Truong's recipe is based on techniques he learned at his parents’ restaurant, Saigon Café in Harrisonburg, Va., and can be adapted to work with a mix of meats. Although geese give the pho a cleaner, beefier flavor, he sometimes uses duck, which imparts an earthier taste. Cooks who don’t have access to goose or duck carcasses can use a combination of chicken carcasses and beef bones. Mr. Truong adds goose or duck feet, which are rich in collagen, to give the soup the distinct, silky mouth feel of a good consommé. The feet are optional, but he suggests at least adding chicken feet; your butcher or poultry purveyors at the farmers' market can usually sell you some. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Leftover chicken ragù — or really any savory filling that is not too liquid — can be tucked inside this tender dough to make baked hand pies. They can be frozen before or after baking, then tucked into lunches and eaten at room temperature. A couple of rounds of prepared pie dough from the grocery store would make a quick and easy substitution.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a simplified riff on a popular recipe that the food editor Andy Baraghani developed for Bon Appétit magazine. It’s a velvety ragù that relies on chicken thighs, bacon and onions for flavor. It takes a couple of steps — browning the chicken, letting it cool after it braises and then shredding it — but it is not too challenging for a weeknight. The recipe is versatile. Over egg noodles, it serves six for dinner, but it can also make a nice dinner for two or four. The leftovers freeze well, or can turn into a filling for hand pies, which are terrific tucked into lunchboxes the next day. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Eddie Hernandez, who runs Taqueria del Sol, a string of easygoing Mexican restaurants in Georgia and Tennessee, considers himself a born-again Southern boy whose food reflects a mash-up of the two cultures. He grew up in a working-class neighborhood in Monterrey, Mexico, where a pork roast like this would have never made it onto the table. But he came to love the roast’s role in a traditional Southern Sunday supper, and decided to give it his own Mexican twist. It has become one of the most popular specials at his restaurants. The granulated garlic and onion are essential to the flavor. The roast cooks fast in a hot oven that crisps the fat. The residual oven heat roasts the jalapeños while the meat rests. Once you make the roux, the rich gravy for the dish comes together quickly. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The marriage of radish and orange punches way above its weight as a salad. This version is based on one James Beard collected. Alice Waters, the founder of Chez Panisse, has a recipe, too. So does Paula Wolfert, who dedicated her nine cookbooks to Mediterranean cuisine. Their inspiration came from countless Moroccans who have this salad in regular rotation, often with orange flower water. This recipe leaves it out, opting for a simpler but still refreshing salad that requires careful, precise preparation of the oranges and the radishes to make it shine. If you like, add a pinch of cinnamon to the dressing or sprinkle a bit on top. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This bright, lemony salad laced with fresh herbs is a passport to spring. Simmering the rice in plenty of salted water just until it’s al dente and then cooling it well is key. Blanched fresh peas are terrific if you can find them, but frozen work just fine. The trick is marinating them in lemony olive oil, a technique borrowed from the Michigan chef Abra Berens, who uses it in her comprehensive book “Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables” (Chronicle Books, 2019). The prosciutto adds a nice salty hit, but you could sub in a dollop of creamy ricotta or leave both out for your vegan friends. Either way, the recipe delivers a bright salad that can stand in for a light meal. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Mace, nutmeg’s peppery sister, is what makes the difference in these crab cakes. The recipe, adapted from “Gullah Geechee Home Cooking: Recipes From the Matriarch of Edisto Island,” comes from Emily Meggett, one of the most well-respected cooks in the Gullah Geechee community, whose food traditions are built largely on the crabs, shrimp and fish they pull from the water near their homes along the southeastern shoreline. She has made thousands of these using freshly cooked blue crabs, but meat that has already been picked and processed works as well. Be sparing with the bread crumbs, which should just hold the mixture together, then add more if the cakes are falling apart. Make sure the pan is very hot, then reduce the heat the minute they hit the oil. Keep a close eye while they brown. These are lovely bites to start a meal, or can star as supper, alongside rice and fresh vegetables. Ms. Meggett serves them with what she calls pink sauce, which is similar to this sauce, with the additi

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Emily Meggett, who published her first cookbook, “Gullah Geechee Home Cooking: Recipes From the Matriarch of Edisto Island,” at 89, learned how to make these crisp wafer cookies from her grandmother who learned from generations before. Benne seeds, sesame seeds that enslaved Africans brought with them to the southeastern shores of America, have long been a staple in Gullah Geechee cooking. They are an important component in rice dishes and savory crackers and are the stars of these buttery wafers. Regular sesame seeds will work fine, especially if you toast them in butter, but Mrs. Meggett suggests you try to buy benne seeds, an heirloom seed that is available online. They have a nutty, almost burned honey flavor and bring out the umami in the cookies. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This delicious cobbler, which features pie crust instead of a biscuit or cake topping, is designed to let the incandescent flavor of summer peaches shine, and it’s best made when they are in season. Edna Lewis, the cookbook author and chef from Virginia whose books are considered definitive in the Southern culinary canon, often suggested a lattice top for it, with bits of raw dough tucked into the filling before baking. Those bits cook into tender dumplings while thickening the fruit juice. Serve the result warm with ice cream or whipped cream, or all by itself. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

In Tucson, Ariz., a late night out is often punctuated by a stop at a local Mexican restaurant for cheese crisp. Linda Ronstadt grew up eating the version at El Minuto, which was across the street from the building where her brother worked as the chief of police. She included the recipe in her hybrid memoir-cookbook “Feels Like Home: A Song for the Sonoran Borderlands” (Heyday, 2022). The ingredients are ridiculously simple but it is essential to search out an approximation of the large, nearly translucent flour tortillas that are a mainstay of Sonoran cooking. The trick is to let the tortillas cool and harden before topping them with cheese and sending them under the broiler. Chopped green chiles are a nice way to add some character to the snack, but a good hot sauce will do. Kim Severson