Goose Pho
Wade Truong is the head chef at Kybecca in Fredericksburg, Va. He is also a skilled hunter who does his best to eat only wild game at home. As a result, his freezer always has a stash of goose and duck carcasses, which he turns into pho. Mr. Truong's recipe is based on techniques he learned at his parents’ restaurant, Saigon Café in Harrisonburg, Va., and can be adapted to work with a mix of meats. Although geese give the pho a cleaner, beefier flavor, he sometimes uses duck, which imparts an earthier taste. Cooks who don’t have access to goose or duck carcasses can use a combination of chicken carcasses and beef bones. Mr. Truong adds goose or duck feet, which are rich in collagen, to give the soup the distinct, silky mouth feel of a good consommé. The feet are optional, but he suggests at least adding chicken feet; your butcher or poultry purveyors at the farmers' market can usually sell you some. Kim Severson
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