Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Fragrant with mint and cilantro and a hit of oregano, these delicate Mexican meatballs have served Linda Ronstadt’s family for generations. They were lunch for her grandfather, or a soup course when the family gathered at her grandparent’s house. The recipe, published in her memoir-cookbook hybrid “Feels Like Home: A Song for the Sonoran Borderlands” (Heyday, 2022), is different from many traditional albóndigas recipes, which use rice or soft vegetables like potatoes or carrots to bind the meatballs. It may seem like the meatball components won’t come together when kneading at first, but stick with it. The poaching liquid becomes a broth, which benefits from skimming off the little bit of foam that appears before serving. A variation of the Ronstadt family meatballs first appeared in The Times in 1989. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Alice Waters often recommends that cooks master a good minestrone. It’s communal and seasonal, two pillars on which she has built her cooking career. This summer recipe came from the cookbook that is her top seller: "The Art of Simple Food." It uses the best of the season’s green beans, tomatoes and squash. In the spring, fresh peas, asparagus and spinach would make a good vegetable trio, with some fennel standing in for the carrot in the sofrito. In the fall, cubes of butternut squash, a small can of tomatoes and a bunch of kale would star, with rosemary and a little chopped sage instead of thyme for seasoning. Winter might bring a soup built from turnips, potatoes and cabbage. If the turnips have greens, add them, too. Start with a large pot that has a heavy bottom. Always cook the vegetables through, about 10 minutes. They should look good enough to eat on their own. Add the beans about 10 minutes before serving. A cup or two of cooked pasta can be stirred in at the last minute. Don

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Paul Arguin, an epidemiologist, relaxes by making pie. This one, with its generous amount of fruit and sweetness from maple syrup, won the blueberry-division prize in the 2017 National Pie Championships. A few tricks raise it above other blueberry pies. One is the crust, which has a touch of cinnamon and maple sugar, and uses cider vinegar and just a little shortening for structure. Dr. Arguin cooks the filling in a sous-vide machine, which keeps the berries whole but tender. For the top crust, he borrows an idea from cake makers who work with fondant. Four planks of dough are pressed into an inexpensive silicone mat molded to look like wood grain, then peeled off and set on top of the pie. Home cooks without fancy equipment, take heart. The berries can be cooked slowly on the stove, and four strips of plain dough for the top crust work just as well. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Limpin’ Susan is often called the wife of Hoppin’ John, the pilau of peas and rice that Gullah cooks have made for generations in the South Carolina Sea Islands and Lowcountry, and that is also common in the Caribbean. Like Hoppin' John, the dish takes many forms depending on whose kitchen you grew up in. Some recipes start with fried bacon and end with washed long-grain rice, onions and okra steaming over simmering water for 45 minutes. Others call for simmering everything in chicken stock, or mixing chicken broth and cornstarch, then mixing the broth into cooked rice. B.J. Dennis, a Charleston chef, likes his Limpin’ Susan more like a dry stir-fry, akin to what one might eat in Trinidad. The rice is cooked ahead of time, so liquid is fully absorbed and the grains remain distinct. This recipe is vegetarian, although Mr. Dennis likes to toss in a handful of chopped shrimp when the onions are softening.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Emily Meggett, who published her first cookbook, “Gullah Geechee Home Cooking: Recipes From the Matriarch of Edisto Island,” at 89, learned how to make these crisp wafer cookies from her grandmother who learned from generations before. Benne seeds, sesame seeds that enslaved Africans brought with them to the southeastern shores of America, have long been a staple in Gullah Geechee cooking. They are an important component in rice dishes and savory crackers and are the stars of these buttery wafers. Regular sesame seeds will work fine, especially if you toast them in butter, but Mrs. Meggett suggests you try to buy benne seeds, an heirloom seed that is available online. They have a nutty, almost burned honey flavor and bring out the umami in the cookies. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The cheese ball is a stalwart of the Midwest cocktail party, where it can be fashioned from processed Cheddar cheese and port wine, or pineapple and cream cheese. This recipe relies on the leftover ends of good cheese or even just one kind of good-quality, sharp cheese like Gruyère. The idea of adding butter comes from Vivian Howard, the North Carolina chef who features a cheese ball with blue cheese, chopped dates and bacon in her cookbook "Deep Run Roots." She calls hers a party magnet, and indeed, for all of the shade thrown at cheese balls, they are often the first thing to be eaten. They can be served with chutney, jam or simply alongside the best-quality crackers you can find.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Bryant Terry is the chef in residence at the Museum of the African Diaspora in San Francisco, where he creates events that celebrate the African-American intersection of food and culture. With millet, lentils and potatoes, these vegan cakes are a nod to ’70s-style macrobiotic dishes — but upgraded with a smoky, garlicky sauce built from roasted green peppers. They are also good on their own if you don’t have time to make the sauce, and are delicious topped with an egg as a non-vegan alternative. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

You need something to put out when people come over for a drink. Or when you need something savory in the afternoon when you wish someone was coming over for a drink. You can roll the batch into a couple of logs, freeze and slice and bake off a dozen or so at a time.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Leftover chicken ragù — or really any savory filling that is not too liquid — can be tucked inside this tender dough to make baked hand pies. They can be frozen before or after baking, then tucked into lunches and eaten at room temperature. A couple of rounds of prepared pie dough from the grocery store would make a quick and easy substitution.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a simplified riff on a popular recipe that the food editor Andy Baraghani developed for Bon Appétit magazine. It’s a velvety ragù that relies on chicken thighs, bacon and onions for flavor. It takes a couple of steps — browning the chicken, letting it cool after it braises and then shredding it — but it is not too challenging for a weeknight. The recipe is versatile. Over egg noodles, it serves six for dinner, but it can also make a nice dinner for two or four. The leftovers freeze well, or can turn into a filling for hand pies, which are terrific tucked into lunchboxes the next day. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This nutty, spicy salsa with the tang of vinegar is from Veracruz, Mexico, where it’s called salsa macha. It has long been a favorite of Pati Jinich, the Mexican-born chef who lives in Washington, D.C. Her version comes together fast, and offers a lot of character and versatility. Use it to liven up roasted vegetables or grilled meats. It’s especially great on lamb chops and skirt steak, or even baked potatoes served with sour cream and cheese. The salsa lasts for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator; the solids will sink to the bottom, leaving a deeply flavored oil that can add a little muscle to sauces or a finishing touch to other dishes. You can use other nuts in place of the peanuts, or a mix of nuts and sunflower or pumpkin seeds. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

These are almost brownie-like in flavor, and remain slightly softer than many traditional sugar cookies. The recipe was developed by Georganne Bell, a professional cookie-decorating teacher in Salt Lake City who doesn’t like traditional vanilla sugar cookies. Unlike many sugar cookies, these don’t need to chill, and can be rolled out immediately after they are mixed. Avoid the temptation to add more flour (unless the dough is really sticky), or to use too much flour while rolling and cutting them, or the cookies will be dry. They don’t spread in the oven, so you can bake them close together. They are sturdy enough to decorate wildly with colored royal icing, but also taste good with just buttercream or a simple glaze of powdered sugar and water flavored with a little lemon juice or vanilla. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Ask anyone in Italy if they know “The Talisman of Happiness” and odds are they’ll say yes. Ada Boni wrote the first edition of the essential cookbook in 1929 and updated it over the years as Italy’s culture and cooking changed. This recipe is adapted from the latest edition (Voracious, 2025). Condimento alla papalina, which loosely translates to “sauce for the pope,” was created in honor of Pope Pius XII, who became head of the Catholic Church in 1939. It’s a testament to how only a few ingredients you probably have on hand can create a delicious, incredibly satisfying dish in about 15 minutes. She calls it a lighter alternative to carbonara, although the amount of butter and cheese is quite generous. Ms. Boni says the sauce is best tossed with fettuccine. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This classic recipe from Paula Wolfert, who picked it up from her friend, the Turkish food journalist Ayfer Unsal, is a versatile relish that can be spooned alongside pork skewers, simply cooked fish or sliced steak. Each ingredient is important to the final relish. Leave one out and it will seem out of balance. A note: Rinse the olives with cool water before you use them, then taste one. If they seem too salty, soak them in lukewarm water for 30 minutes. Drain and rinse again. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Ramps are one of those items that seem so appealing at the market but can be a challenge to use when you get them home. This dish solves the problem. Because the recipe comes from Rachael Ray, who made her name teaching a generation to get dinner on the table in 30 minutes, it’s quick to make once you have the ramps blanched. The pesto comes together fast, so you can make it while the pasta is boiling. The creaminess of the ricotta tempers the ramps, which can vary in their pungency. Pink peppercorns are berries, not true peppercorns. They add a lovely look to the finished pasta and bring a more delicate fruitiness and a quieter heat than black pepper; if you can't find them, black pepper will do just fine. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This gingerbread, from the chefs Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock, is just wonderful: a little spicy, a little sweet, very simple to make, and absolutely delicious. Whipped cream is an easy topping, although dulce de leche or another warm, caramel-y sauce takes it to a special place. But it’s also kind of nice plain, wrapped in waxed paper and tucked inside someone’s lunch. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Deep frying a turkey can seem daunting, but it is incredibly simple and produces a superior turkey that is unexpectedly juicy and far more forgiving in far less time than conventional roasting. It is equipment heavy, yes. Buying a “rig” — the large pot, propane hub and hooks — is your best bet, because it gives you everything you need to complete the task without much fuss. (Here’s the turkey fryer Wirecutter recommends.) Some contain a thermometer to clip to the pot. If not, you will need one, along with one to check the bird. And yes, there will be a lot of oil left over to contend with (see Tips). But once you accept those two things, the path to a truly delicious turkey is easy. Keys to This Recipe How long does it take to deep fry a turkey? The oil should get to 350 degrees in anywhere from 15 minutes to more than a half-hour, depending on the weather and how strong your propane hub is. Frying in peanut oil is the classic way, but any vegetable oil with a high smoke point can work

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a rich, special-occasion cake that takes the traditional Southern coconut cake to another level, with ground toasted pecans in the batter and an easy-to-make Chantilly cream for frosting. It has become the signature dessert for Dolester Miles, who serves slices over a little puddle of crème anglaise at Chez Fonfon and Bottega, and sometimes at the Highlands Bar & Grill, the Birmingham, Ala., restaurants owned by Frank and Pardis Stitt. Assembly can be a challenge, so she suggests building the cake by stacking the delicate slabs of cake with filling in between each layer into a deep, round cake pan, then slipping it into the refrigerator for about an hour. The filling acts like a delicious glue. When the cake is inverted and unmolded, the edges have an even, professional appearance. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The celebrated pastry chef Dolester Miles learned to bake in a small town called Bessemer, outside Birmingham, Ala. She took the tastes of desserts passed down from her mother and her aunt, and re-worked them with the techniques she has picked up in her more than 30 years at the Birmingham restaurants Highlands Bar & Grill, Chez Fonfon and Bottega. This lemon meringue tart, reminiscent of a Southern icebox cake but with a French feel, is a perfect example. She stirs in white chocolate to give the curd a luscious mouth feel, and finishes it with a drift of soft Swiss meringue toasted with a blowtorch. A few seconds under the broiler will work, too. She cautions cooks never to take their eyes off the tart during that final step. “It’ll get away from you fast,” she said. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This recipe came to The Times from Doris Muramatsu, a musician with the band Girlyman. It takes about 15 minutes to make and is particularly terrific over ice cream with some spicy pecans chopped on top. It is also an easily made token of true friendship and cheer: pour some into small jars and give it to friends.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This quick-cooking fish stew, with its raft of eggs and no-stir preparation method, is specific to eastern North Carolina. Church fund-raisers and family gatherings center on the stew, where traditionally men would layer chunks of fish with bones and skin, thinly sliced potatoes, onions and spices in a caldron and stand around the fire watching it cook. About five minutes before it was done, someone would crack an egg for each guest into the tomato-rich broth. Eggs were a cheap filler and a way to stretch the stew to provide enough protein for a crowd, along with fish like striped bass or flounder from North Carolina’s Atlantic shore. Vivian Howard, who left New York to open Chef & the Farmer, a restaurant in Kinston, N.C., offers this version for home cooks. The key is not stirring it at all, and watching the heat so the bottom doesn’t scorch. Serve it with a couple of slices of squishy white bread (Sunbeam is traditional), which act as delicious sponges for the broth. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This recipe for lemon cheesecake by the Southern chef Edna Lewis was featured in a Times article about Southern cakes. It is a lovely layer cake that makes economical use of yolks and whites, and it’s nothing like what a New Yorker thinks of as cheesecake. The “cheese” is really an eggy lemon curd piled between layers of cake made sturdy by egg whites. More lemon curd covers the whole cake, its layers visible beneath the slightly translucent jelly. The cake tastes better the next day. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This delicious cobbler, which features pie crust instead of a biscuit or cake topping, is designed to let the incandescent flavor of summer peaches shine, and it’s best made when they are in season. Edna Lewis, the cookbook author and chef from Virginia whose books are considered definitive in the Southern culinary canon, often suggested a lattice top for it, with bits of raw dough tucked into the filling before baking. Those bits cook into tender dumplings while thickening the fruit juice. Serve the result warm with ice cream or whipped cream, or all by itself. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

In Tucson, Ariz., a late night out is often punctuated by a stop at a local Mexican restaurant for cheese crisp. Linda Ronstadt grew up eating the version at El Minuto, which was across the street from the building where her brother worked as the chief of police. She included the recipe in her hybrid memoir-cookbook “Feels Like Home: A Song for the Sonoran Borderlands” (Heyday, 2022). The ingredients are ridiculously simple but it is essential to search out an approximation of the large, nearly translucent flour tortillas that are a mainstay of Sonoran cooking. The trick is to let the tortillas cool and harden before topping them with cheese and sending them under the broiler. Chopped green chiles are a nice way to add some character to the snack, but a good hot sauce will do. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Mace, nutmeg’s peppery sister, is what makes the difference in these crab cakes. The recipe, adapted from “Gullah Geechee Home Cooking: Recipes From the Matriarch of Edisto Island,” comes from Emily Meggett, one of the most well-respected cooks in the Gullah Geechee community, whose food traditions are built largely on the crabs, shrimp and fish they pull from the water near their homes along the southeastern shoreline. She has made thousands of these using freshly cooked blue crabs, but meat that has already been picked and processed works as well. Be sparing with the bread crumbs, which should just hold the mixture together, then add more if the cakes are falling apart. Make sure the pan is very hot, then reduce the heat the minute they hit the oil. Keep a close eye while they brown. These are lovely bites to start a meal, or can star as supper, alongside rice and fresh vegetables. Ms. Meggett serves them with what she calls pink sauce, which is similar to this sauce, with the additi

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The beefy nature of goose legs makes them a good choice for this rich, slightly spicy braise, but duck legs work fine, too. The timing here is very forgiving. This recipe cooks on a stovetop, but you could also braise the meat in a slow cooker or an oven set to about 325 degrees. The key is to simmer the legs until the meat pulls easily from the bone. The luscious secret comes at the end, when the warm meat is tossed in melted fat. The end result is highly adaptable: Wrap it in a warm tortilla, serve it alongside rice and beans with some good salsa, or spoon it atop a bed of sturdy greens and eat it as a salad. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Wade Truong is the head chef at Kybecca in Fredericksburg, Va. He is also a skilled hunter who does his best to eat only wild game at home. As a result, his freezer always has a stash of goose and duck carcasses, which he turns into pho. Mr. Truong's recipe is based on techniques he learned at his parents’ restaurant, Saigon Café in Harrisonburg, Va., and can be adapted to work with a mix of meats. Although geese give the pho a cleaner, beefier flavor, he sometimes uses duck, which imparts an earthier taste. Cooks who don’t have access to goose or duck carcasses can use a combination of chicken carcasses and beef bones. Mr. Truong adds goose or duck feet, which are rich in collagen, to give the soup the distinct, silky mouth feel of a good consommé. The feet are optional, but he suggests at least adding chicken feet; your butcher or poultry purveyors at the farmers' market can usually sell you some. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Eddie Hernandez, who runs a string of Mexican restaurants in Georgia and Tennessee called Taqueria del Sol, came up with a delicious way to deal with hard, unripe peaches. Sliced thinly, softened with salt and brightened with lime juice and Serrano chiles, the peaches become a salad that’s a cousin to Mexican street snacks built from unripe mangoes and papayas and punched up with chile salt. The salad keeps well in the refrigerator for several days. Mr. Hernandez likes to eat it with a scoop of cottage cheese on the side, though dabs of goat cheese would do as well. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Green tomatoes are either nearly impossible to find or in such abundance that farmers at the greenmarket almost give them away. This recipe was inspired by Rachael Ray, who gets green tomatoes from a wholesaler when they’re scarce or has a favorite farmer at the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan set some aside during the late spring and early summer when they’re abundant. You can adjust the amount of peppers to control the heat. And red tomatoes work fine if you can’t find green ones. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This bright, lemony salad laced with fresh herbs is a passport to spring. Simmering the rice in plenty of salted water just until it’s al dente and then cooling it well is key. Blanched fresh peas are terrific if you can find them, but frozen work just fine. The trick is marinating them in lemony olive oil, a technique borrowed from the Michigan chef Abra Berens, who uses it in her comprehensive book “Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables” (Chronicle Books, 2019). The prosciutto adds a nice salty hit, but you could sub in a dollop of creamy ricotta or leave both out for your vegan friends. Either way, the recipe delivers a bright salad that can stand in for a light meal. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

In the south Indian state of Kerala, a street stall selling food is called a thattukada, and one of the most well-known dishes served is something called chicken fry, or thattu chicken. The chef Asha Gomez, who grew up in the Kerala port city of Trivandrum and now lives in Atlanta, took that street chicken and adapted it into a quick-cooking recipe that relies on coconut oil for crispness, and curry leaves, ginger and garlic for flavor. It gets its heat and color from Kashmiri chile powder, a fruity pepper used in many Indian dishes. It’s worth seeking out the pepper online, or at a market that caters to Indian shoppers, where you can also find the fresh curry leaves that are key to this dish. Ms. Gomez serves it with the flaky paratha that’s unique to Kerala, but any flatbread, or even rice, works well. It’s also a great dish to set out as a nibble with drinks, as they do in the toddy shops of southern India. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The word scottadito means burned fingers in Italian; these lamb chops are best eaten with one's fingers soon after they come off the grill. The recipe comes from Rachael Ray, who serves these at her homes in upstate New York and Manhattan. The lamb chops are best if they marinate for several hours, but turn out just fine with an hour or two under the anchovy and garlic paste. Ms. Ray's method for preparing kale produces crispy leaves; key elements are the lightest spray of oil, and baking racks to get them really crisp. They need to be made in batches, but a hot oven makes the job quick, and they can also be done a little bit ahead of time and served at room temperature. Don’t skip grilling the lemon: the slightly charred, acidic flavor adds an essential layer. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The vegan chef Jenné Claiborne grew up in suburban Atlanta, where she developed a love for the teriyaki chicken stir-fry at Panda Express. After she became vegan, she recreated the flavors of her teen-age craving, using dates and soy sauce to produce the flavor of teriyaki sauce. If you don’t have chickpeas on hand to add heft to the vegetables, replace them with tempeh, tofu, edamame, jackfruit or mushrooms. Also, feel free to swap out the broccoli in favor of another green vegetable like kale, cabbage or bok choy. To make a less salty, slightly less mall-like version, use low-sodium soy sauce or ¼ cup soy sauce and ¼ water or broth. You can also use low-sodium canned chickpeas (or soak and cook your own and salt to taste). Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This recipe is from "A Meatloaf in Every Oven," by Frank Bruni and Jennifer Steinhauer, who say it was the invention of a friend, Anne Kornblut. The plethora of spices and large amounts of garlic may seem overwhelming, but ground meat has a deep tolerance for seasoning and is usually improved by it. The fresh herbs are a foil for all the rich seasonings, and the vegetables give the loaf an especially lovely texture. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The marriage of radish and orange punches way above its weight as a salad. This version is based on one James Beard collected. Alice Waters, the founder of Chez Panisse, has a recipe, too. So does Paula Wolfert, who dedicated her nine cookbooks to Mediterranean cuisine. Their inspiration came from countless Moroccans who have this salad in regular rotation, often with orange flower water. This recipe leaves it out, opting for a simpler but still refreshing salad that requires careful, precise preparation of the oranges and the radishes to make it shine. If you like, add a pinch of cinnamon to the dressing or sprinkle a bit on top. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This simple way to roast salmon brings spectacular results with hardly any worry on the cook's part. The Mediterranean cookbook author Paula Wolfert learned it from the French chef Michel Bras, and it rises and falls on the thinness of the sheet pan. A pan of water delivers enough moisture to steam the fish briefly at a low temperature, producing a final product that is soft and deliciously juicy. It adapts easily to almost any salmon fillet. Emily Kaiser Thelin, who includes it in her biography of Ms. Wolfert, "Unforgettable," says a center-cut of wild-caught Alaska king works best and suggests pairing it with a salad or cracked green olive relish. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Raghavan Iyer says Thailand is the only country outside of India that worships curries with as much devotion. In the way Indian cooks use a blend of herbs and spices, Thai cooks use an array of curry pastes to create regional curries. He created three for his 2023 book “On the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced The World” (Workman Publishing). His red curry paste is a version of the most common curry. When frying the tofu, add a little more oil if the pan seems dry and be aware that when the chile paste is added to the pan, the capsaicin can produce a head-clearing whiff of heat. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

In Valtellina, a valley in the Italian Alps hosting events for the 2026 Winter Olympics, no dish is taken more seriously than pizzoccheri (“petes-O-keh-ree”), which is on almost every restaurant menu in the ski resort towns. People who grew up here debate the proper width of the buckwheat noodles that make up its base (with opinions based on what their mothers did, of course). There is even a pizzoccheri institute dedicated to its preservation. Alessandro Negrini, a Michelin-starred chef, grew up in the valley and dedicated himself to the dish. “It’s what is in our soul,” he said. The noodles are simple, requiring just buckwheat flour, wheat flour and water, plus about five minutes to knead into the right texture (you can also find pizzoccheri pasta at Italian groceries or online). Cooks in the valley use Valtellina Casera cheese, which is difficult to source outside of Europe, but any good Alpine-style variety works well. The key is to have the serving dish warm and the ingredients pr

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This is a simple dip with infinite possibilities. The classic version, called gzik, comes from the Wielkopolska province in Poland. It’s built from a farmer’s cheese called twarog, which is essentially a dry version of what Americans know as cottage cheese. The cheese, which comes molded into a thick disc, is mashed with a fork, then loosened with a few tablespoons (or more, depending on the dryness of the cheese) of yogurt or cream. Radishes and some members of the allium family, most often chives or onions, add flavor; dill or other herbs sometimes make an appearance. The classic way to eat it is on boiled or baked potatoes still in their jackets, but gzik on buttered rye bread is a popular breakfast dish. Although you can use any style of cottage cheese for this recipe, smaller curds work better than large because the dip should be slightly smoother than cottage cheese.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Eddie Hernandez, who runs Taqueria del Sol, a string of easygoing Mexican restaurants in Georgia and Tennessee, considers himself a born-again Southern boy whose food reflects a mash-up of the two cultures. He grew up in a working-class neighborhood in Monterrey, Mexico, where a pork roast like this would have never made it onto the table. But he came to love the roast’s role in a traditional Southern Sunday supper, and decided to give it his own Mexican twist. It has become one of the most popular specials at his restaurants. The granulated garlic and onion are essential to the flavor. The roast cooks fast in a hot oven that crisps the fat. The residual oven heat roasts the jalapeños while the meat rests. Once you make the roux, the rich gravy for the dish comes together quickly. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

An elegant, comforting bowl of pho usually requires blanching beef bones and then simmering them with spices for hours. Andrea Nguyen, a cookbook author who lives in drought-plagued California, wanted the same effect but in a recipe that used less water and less energy. This broth can be put together in less than an hour. It cooks in a standard stove-top pressure cooker for 20 minutes and in an electric pressure cooker for 30. “As much as I love to simmer a stockpot of beef pho for three hours,” Ms. Nguyen says, “it’s incredibly liberating to make a pretty good version for four people in about an hour." Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This stripped-down, built-for-flavor recipe, adapted from “Meathead: The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling” by Meathead Goldwyn, is for people who don’t brine, forgot to brine or didn’t leave enough time to salt a bird and leave it in the refrigerator for 24 hours. It keeps the white meat moist and boosts its flavor with a rich, simple jus of stock fortified with soy sauce and deglazed pan drippings. The idea comes from Southern barbecue pit masters who shred or chop the meat from a pork shoulder and wet it with vinegar, black pepper and maybe a little tomato. The turkey is roasted slowly to keep the meat fibers from seizing up, and the breast meat is shredded or sliced so thin it falls apart. The meat is then dunked in the jus and served in a dish deep enough to hold both meat and liquid. The thigh meat and legs can be served alongside on a separate platter. The next day, the jus-soaked meat and a little cup of extra jus make for a perfect turkey French dip. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Raghavan Iyer created this version of Thai red curry paste for his 2023 book, “On the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced The World” (Workman Publishing). Curry pastes make up the soul of Thailand’s regional curries. In his recipe for Pan-Fried Tofu With Red Curry Paste, Mr. Iyer uses coconut milk to mellow the heat. The red curry is part of a trilogy in his cookbook, which includes green curry paste (with cilantro leaves and fresh green Thai chiles) and yellow curry paste (which relies on fresh ginger and turmeric and yellow aji amarillo chiles). Red, green and yellow curry pastes are nice to have on hand to give complexity and depth to meat, vegetable and grain dishes. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The Romans make a classic dish in the spring with very young milk-fed lamb. Such meat is hard to find in American supermarkets, but the technique, which involves a short braise in vinegar and water with a boost of anchovy at the end, works fine with chunks of lamb cut from a leg or roast of any young lamb. This recipe is built on the precise technique for abbacchio alla cacciatora that Marcella Hazan offered in "The Classic Italian Cookbook," with some freshening up. The braised chunks of meat are topped with a crunchy sugar snap pea salad that carries the heat of Calabria peppers, a recipe from Whitney Otawka, who grew up in California and now cooks in Georgia. (The salad is a great stand-alone recipe, too, and one that would be terrific alongside a ham, if yours is an Easter ham family.)

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

As the owner of the French Laundry, Per Se and Bouchon, restaurateur Thomas Keller is best known for haute cuisine, but he can do weeknight cooking, too. Case in point: this elegant and easy chicken dish that can be ready in about 20 minutes. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

In this recipe, Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock call for an overnight brine for the chicken and a further buttermilk bath that should last for 8 to 12 hours. That’s a lot of unattended prep time before you get around to frying them in a slurry of lard and butter flavored with country ham. This is a time commitment, but the result — cooked in a cast-iron pan — is food to impress, and impress deeply, a dish made of humble ingredients that would be welcome on the finest china. Even better? It’s just as good cold as it is hot. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Clams work their way into plenty of dishes in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico, which is where the chef Pati Jinich picked up this recipe for pasta con salsa picante de chorizo y almejas. The dish, which she featured on an episode of her PBS show, “Pati’s Mexican Table,” is a nod to the prized clams that are harvested in and around the coastal lagoons on Mexico’s Pacific shores. It pays homage to the surf-and-turf dishes in Tijuana, where cooks find seemingly endless ways to mix meat and seafood on a single plate. The dish takes its aggressive heat from chorizo and chiles de arbol, but it can be dialed down by substituting ½ teaspoon or less of red-pepper flakes. The beer in the dish is Ms. Jinich’s nod to the craft-beer boom in Baja. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

There are as many recipes for southern Maryland stuffed ham as there are families in St. Mary’s County. It shows up on Christmas and Easter tables, and at almost every community fund-raising supper. This recipe, compiled from cooks whose families have been making it for generations, uses raw stuffing and is spiced with plenty of black and red pepper. Because the ham boils for so long, the spiciness will mellow. The most challenging part is the finding the ham itself. Corned hams — which are simply fresh hams that have been cured in salt or brine — aren’t usually in the grocery meat case, and butchers will often require advance orders. Corning your own fresh ham is not hard, but it can take several days and turns this into even more of a project.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Whitney Otawka, whom you may remember from "Top Chef" or Hugh Acheson’s Five & Ten restaurant in Athens, Ga., cooks at the Greyfield Inn. It’s the only place to stay on Cumberland Island, the largest barrier island off Georgia’s coast. The farmers who live there grow sugar snap peas, which she welcomes as one of the early tastes of spring. She is also a fan of Calabrian peppers packed in oil, which she started eating at Antico Pizza in Atlanta. She uses them to make a dressing base that enlivens the peas. The fennel, which needs to be sliced very finely, adds crunch and depth. Buy baby fennel, if you can find it. This is a great salad on its own, or use it as a kind of relish on grilled meat or braised lamb. There will be extra chile dressing, which is a fine condiment for grilled chicken. It will also add character to a pasta dish or even a slice of takeout pizza. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Chefs have a way of taking the most humble ingredient and elevating it, which is what Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman of Hog & Hominy in Memphis did with sweet potatoes. The trick is to confit thick slices slow in fat, which transforms the texture into silk. They use pork fat at their restaurants, but home cooks can get a similar effect with olive oil seasoned with some bacon fat. It works well with olive oil alone, too. The chefs also make their own chorizo, and mix up their own crème fraîche with heavy cream and buttermilk, then spike it with yuzu. Home cooks can make things more reasonable using pre-made chorizo and store-bought crème fraîche with a hit of lemon juice (though yuzu is better if you can find it). The confit itself can be done a day or two ahead of time. Just lift the sweet potato slices from the oil and chill them. (To save a few minutes, you can toast the pecans in the oven as you bake the sweet potatoes.) A last note: It does seem like a daunting amount of olive oil,

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

The spicing level is fairly forgiving on these pecans, which make a wonderful gift for the holidays or party snack. You can add more cayenne for heat or a little more sugar if you want them sweeter. The key points, though, are making sure they toast well but don't burn and using really good pecans, like Elliots from Georgia, which are stubbier and sweeter than the bigger, skinnier pecans that come from Texas and other Southwestern states (though they are delicious, too.) Ordering bulk pecans online helps keep the cost down.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Royal icing is the classic sweet glue that holds together gingerbread houses and provides a glossy medium for elaborate cookie decorations. Many recipes call for egg whites or cream of tartar or both, but meringue powder (available online or at specialty food stores) offers gloss, stability and creaminess without the use of raw eggs or other ingredients. This recipe was developed by Georganne Bell, a professional cookie-decorating teacher in Salt Lake City who doesn’t like traditional vanilla sugar cookies. The icing takes coloring easily, and pipes nicely from an icing bag or even a plastic bag with a corner snipped off. Kim Severson

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

This clever vegan re-creation of a Southern Louisiana étouffée comes from Jenné Claiborne, who included it in her 2018 cookbook "Sweet Potato Soul." Succulent oyster mushrooms stand in for the shrimp or crawfish used in a traditional étouffée. The seaweed called dulse brings a smoky, savory note and a mix of Creole and Old Bay seasoning provides the familiar flavors. Ms. Claiborne suggests spooning this over brown rice instead of the traditional white. Kim Severson