Recipes

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

This easy, sturdy all-butter crust has one unorthodox ingredient in it: baking powder. Cheryl Day of Back in the Day Bakery in Savannah, Ga., learned to add a splash of apple cider vinegar to the dough from her grandmother; it helps the crust stay tender by preventing gluten from forming. But the baking powder gives it “a little lift,” she said, which helps the butter and flour form flaky layers — like a biscuit. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Lemon isn’t a classic seasoning for mashed potatoes, but butter makes an excellent go-between. This variation on French pommes purée is just the kind of dish that Ina Garten, who shared this recipe from her book “Modern Comfort Food” with The Times, likes to perfect for home cooks. Cooking the potatoes in less water than usual and gradually mashing in bits of chilled butter are the details that make the recipe special. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Ina Garten was one of the people who made roasted whole carrots fashionable for home cooks, back when “The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook” — her first — was published in 1999. Brightening up basic dishes with lemon, orange and vinegar became one of her signatures. She shared this recipe from her book “Modern Comfort Food” with The Times for Thanksgiving 2020. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Ina Garten’s 12th cookbook, “Modern Comfort Food,” was published in October 2020. As always, she seemed to have her finger on the culinary zeitgeist: Comfort was the order of the day. These puffs, which she adapted from the Brooklyn chef Missy Robbins, combine the richness of classic gougères with the bite of black pepper and Parmesan. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Ina Garten has been known as the Barefoot Contessa since she opened a gourmet store by that name in East Hampton, N.Y., in 1985. She shared this recipe from her book “Modern Comfort Food” with The Times for Thanksgiving in 2020, when many cooks were looking for alternatives to whole turkey. If you don’t like fennel seeds, leave them out: Garlic, sage and rosemary give this roast the flavors of Italian porchetta, and it will still be fragrant, juicy and delicious without them. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

This recipe from the eminent American food writer came to The Times through the chef Andrew Zimmern, who was a frequent guest at James Beard’s legendary Sunday and holiday open houses when he was a child. The savory combination of red peppers, onions, raisins, almonds and green olives was new and exciting to him in the 1970s, and still tastes fresh today. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

The Wright Flyer is an adaptation of the classic Paper Plane cocktail, with a nod to North Carolina from its creator. Drew Furlough, a restaurant manager in Asheville, set out to build a citrusy winter cocktail on a base of apple brandy, a traditional spirit that’s enjoying a comeback in the Blue Ridge Mountains, where apples have been a major crop since the 1700s. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

A traditional flavor combination (butter pecan) melds with a modern one (salted caramel) in this magnificently burnished golden cake. Brian Noyes opened Red Truck bakery in 2008 on the eastern edge of Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley, where plentiful local produce was part of the draw. A dose of aged apple brandy (he uses a local product, Catoctin Creek) keeps the sweetness in check, but bourbon or any aged brandy will do the job. For a nonalcoholic version, simply omit the brandy from the sauce, and swap in apple juice or cider in the cake batter. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Traditional Yorkshire puddings, like popovers and soufflés, rely on eggs and dairy for their crowning puff and custardy center. Vegan cooks use neither, so this savory recipe is a particularly impressive workaround by Mary McCartney, who stopped eating meat in in the late 1970s when her parents, Sir Paul and Linda, became vegetarians and activists. The structure here comes from protein-rich chickpea flour and aquafaba, Italian for “chickpea water,” and the rise from baking powder and cider vinegar. The recipe needs to be followed closely for best results, particularly the oven temperature, the material and size of the muffin tin (metal and standard 3-ounce cups) and the amount of oil in each cup. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

The taste of a good pad kee mao relies on fresh garlic, basil and chiles — and a lot of each. (“Kee mao” means, roughly, “drunk-style,” and dishes with that label are associated with late-night cravings and hangover prevention.) The finished dish should be fragrant, pungent and whatever means “hot” to you: Deploy your chiles accordingly. Hong Thaimee, a chef in New York who grew up in Bangkok, employs a heavy Dutch oven, instead of a wok. (She said she was surprised to find that it worked better than a wok for Thai stir-fries on her tiny apartment stovetop, as its wide, flat bottom has more contact with the flame and holds onto more heat.) Fresh lime leaves are a popular addition; they are easy to buy online, along with fragrant Thai basil and, sometimes, holy basil. But in a pinch, Ms. Thaimee said, Italian basil and a garnish of lime zest are fine. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Pad Thai is Thailand’s national dish, but not because it is traditional. The government codified it in the 1930s as a way of encouraging national pride in the unique ingredients of Thailand. It has been adopted and adapted all over the country, but one constant is that the dish is made almost entirely of long-lasting ingredients like rice noodles and tamarind, making it easy on the home cook. The savory, tart sauce is very simple to assemble, and it lasts well in the fridge. Watcharee Limanon, a cooking teacher in Yarmouth, Maine, who shared this recipe, said that although salty dried shrimp are used in the original recipe, many Thai cooks (and most of her students) now prefer fresh shrimp. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Built around the satisfying umami of soy sauce, this is an easy Thai recipe to shop for and cook at home. The classic version is made with wide, fresh rice noodles, but Pailin Chongchitnant, a popular Canadian YouTube chef, said that restaurants in Bangkok proudly advertise using spaghetti; in southern Thailand, her family used egg noodles. (In other words, there’s flexibility.) The street-kitchen version of this popular dish — a close relative of Cantonese beef chow fun — will always have more of the seared edges that make the dish extra delicious, but cooking it in a wide, heavy pan that holds onto heat gives great results. If gai lan is not available, Ms. Chongchitnant says that broccolini, a hybrid of gai lan and broccoli, or steamed broccoli are good alternatives. (The crunch of the stems is what you’re after here.). Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Chebureki are the southern Ukrainian branch of the global family of empanadas, potstickers, pasties and salteñas — dough pockets filled with meat and deep-fried until golden and juicy. A blistered, chewy crust is the sign of a really good cheburek according to Olga Koutseridi, who grew up in Mariupol, Ukraine, and adapted this recipe for her home kitchen in Austin, Texas. The dough for this recipe is relatively stiff, which means it will take a bit of time to mix it by hand. You could also use a stand mixer, but your mixer may struggle. After the first few, these pies become much easier to assemble, and you can roll and fill the next one while one is frying. It is best to fry one or two at a time, which helps control the oil temperature and ensures the freshest chebureki. They should be eaten within just a few minutes of their emergence from the fryer. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Ryazhanka, a classic Ukrainian drink, is cool, tangy and lightly sweet, like yogurt with a touch of dulce de leche. This recipe comes from Olga Koutseridi, who spent her childhood summers in Mariupol, Ukraine, where vendors sold chilled ryazhanka that she’d guzzle after a day at the beach. The slight caramel flavor comes from slowly baking whole milk, which can be done in the oven or a slow cooker, before mixing it with a fermented starter like sour cream or kefir. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Every Ukrainian family has its own style of borsch. Olga Koutseridi, who grew up in Mariupol, is a historian and collector of Ukrainian recipes; she’s documented more than 70 recipes, including her mother’s “tomato-centric and cabbage-centric” borsch, as well as this version often eaten in Mariupol. Borsch with fish is traditional in southern Ukraine, where Black Sea ports like Mariupol and Odessa have relied on fishing since ancient times. Modern cooks often use canned versions of local species like anchovies, gobies and sprats. With bell peppers and carrots along with the usual beets and cabbage, this soup is hearty and chunky, but also very light. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Brisket is now a luxurious, festive dish for Hanukkah and Passover, but it was originally an inexpensive cut considered too tough for roasting. This brisket recipe came from Mimi Sheraton, the New York Times’s first restaurant critic and author of a memoir-cookbook, “From My Mother's Kitchen: Recipes and Reminiscences” (HarperCollins, 1979), about growing up in Brooklyn in the 1930s. It demands minimal preparation and limited ingredients — little more than onions and garlic — but the low-and-slow cooking make it extraordinarily complex and delicious. Although the brisket (breast) is traditional, the same recipe works beautifully with any stew cut, such as chuck, oxtail or short ribs. Serve over mashed potatoes or egg noodles, or with boiled potatoes, sprinkled with parsley. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

This is an adaptation of the tangy, rich Filipino meat stew kare-kare, which itself is adapted from the Indian-influenced massaman curries of Southeast Asia. The Indian American chef Floyd Cardoz brought it full circle when he recreated it for American home cooks in his 2016 book “Floyd Cardoz: Flavorwalla” (Artisan). It’s an excellent illustration of how a great stew can fuse flavors that might seem incompatible, like peanuts, cabbage and anchovies. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Mexico has innumerable beef stews: puchero, birria, puntas al albañil — but the most universal, according to writer Pati Jinich, is mole de olla, a true one-pot dish, often made for family gatherings, with vegetables like corn, zucchini, cactus and chayote added at the last minute. If the name seems surprising, Ms. Jinich said, the word mole doesn’t refer just to the famous thickened sauces of Puebla and Oaxaca, but any kind of “saucy thing.” What makes mole de olla a stew and not a soup is the rich purée of roasted dried chiles that both thickens and seasons it. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Nihari, a deeply spiced beef stew from the Indian Muslim tradition, is traditionally simmered overnight, enriched with bones, and served with marrow to make it an extra-filling breakfast. In her book, “Masala: Recipes From India, the Land of Spices” (Ten Speed Press, 2022), the chef Anita Jaisinghani, who grew up in Gujarat and opened Pondicheri in Houston in 2011, adapted the recipe for oxtail. She roasts it until caramelized, then braises it until tender in a mixture thickened by chickpea flour toasted in ghee. Tradition holds that the rich flavors of nihari come from saving a bit of each day’s stew and adding it to the next, like sourdough starter, in “an unbroken string of flavor over decades.” Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

The Roscioli family has built its own culinary empire in Rome since the 1960s, including bread bakeries, a pastry shop, a wine bar and a salumeria that moonlights as a restaurant. It’s a straight-from-the-airport destination for many American chefs, who go to taste the best food and wine from all over Italy, plus perfected Roman classics like cacio e pepe. The Roscioli method involves making a “crema” of cheese, pepper and water in advance. (It can also be refrigerated for later use.) The cheese needs to be grated until fine and feathery, so that it will melt quickly, and the hot pasta water must be added slowly. Unlike many recipes, the pasta here should be fully cooked, not al dente; it won’t cook any further once it’s added to the cheese. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Tieghan Gerard, who runs the wildly popular Half Baked Harvest blog, posts a new recipe nearly every day, all year round, but her favorite season is (of course) fall, when she brings out the pumpkin-shaped pots, pumpkin-scented candles and toasted pumpkin seeds. Even if you don’t identify with the P.S.L. set, separating the pumpkin spice (cake) from the latte (frosting) makes this a delicious snack cake. Pumpkin purée makes it very moist, so test to be sure the batter is baked all the way through. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

Coq au vin blanc, a creamy, delicate French dish, is very different from the classic coq au vin made with red wine. Turning it into an easy skillet dinner of chicken meatballs in mushroom sauce is the kind of trick that has made Half Baked Harvest a wildly popular recipe site in the last decade. Tieghan Gerard, its creator, is a home cook from a big family who has sold millions of cookbooks. The meatballs are seasoned just with salt and pepper, making them superquick, but the sauce is spiked with enough herbs, white wine and Dijon mustard to give the dish depth. You can easily substitute ground turkey. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

If you are the kind of cook who has more sourdough starter than you know what to do with, using it in fresh pasta produces a springy texture and deep flavor. Hannah Neeleman bakes bread most days for her family of 10 at Ballerina Farm, the name of both her 328-acre ranch in Utah and her wildly popular social media accounts. She makes this recipe to serve with stews like beef stroganoff. It can also be made without the herbs. Julia Moskin

Julia Moskin · NYT Cooking

This is a typical family dinner for Hannah Neeleman of Ballerina Farm, who is raising eight children, tending sheep and chickens, and making almost everything her family eats from scratch on her dairy farm in Utah. In many ways, she’s a traditional Mormon farm wife; untraditionally, she broadcasts her daily life to 22 million followers on social media. This recipe uses lean beef and yogurt, both of which are in constant supply on the farm. The tangy sauce is great with any kind of fresh or egg noodles; of course, Ms. Neeleman makes her own. Julia Moskin