Recipes

Nigella Lawson · NYT Cooking

If you live near a store that sells good coconut ice cream, then please buy a tub to serve alongside. But these days I am all restraint and go simply for a jeweled scattering of raspberries.

Nigella Lawson · NYT Cooking

It is, I hope, the acceptable face of culinary cute: a chocolaty flourless cake that falls on cooling. The sides crack, forming the outside of the nest, and into the cake's sunken cavity you spread a soft, voluptuous mixture of whipped cream and melted chocolate. And on top of this you drop small, sugar-coated candy Easter eggs. It's ease itself — especially as you can make the cake the day before, and given that the cracks and crevices are part of its charm, you don't need to be filled with perfectionist angst. And if not complying with the traditions of this holiday, you can fill the crater instead with cream whipped with a teaspoon of vanilla, and dust the top, cappuccino-style, with some cocoa pushed through a strainer. I've used both bittersweet and semisweet chocolate in this cake. Either way it works, either way it seduces. It has the denseness of a chocolate cake, but the lightness of a mousse. Even those who customarily push dessert away, smugly claiming not to eat sweets, wil

Nigella Lawson · NYT Cooking

Now, I love cheesecake and I love mangoes, the mangoes best eaten in their natural state, and preferably in the bath. But the two together make a dessert that manages to be both comforting and elegant. The scented flesh of the fruit does more than add to the taste of the cheesecake: it transforms the texture, too. This mango cheesecake reminds me of those light French fruit-mousse tarts, with their glassy, mirrored tops. And the color! The radiant, golden yellow is instant sunshine in the kitchen, just as the taste is summer on the tongue.

Besha Rodell · NYT Cooking

“How To Eat” by Nigella Lawson is a cookbook, but one of its great joys is its narrative form: Very few of the recipes are written in standard recipe format. This recipe, from the Dinner chapter, is an exception. “This, to me, is the perfect dinner,” Ms. Lawson writes, “simple, impeccable, beautiful.” She suggests serving it with a pea and avocado salad, and adding arugula leaves not only for decorative reasons but also because “its pepperiness perfectly offsets the salty pungency of the anchovy-red-wine sauce.” Besha Rodell

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

On Juneteenth, which celebrates the abolition of slavery in the United States, the picnic table overflows with summertime pies and red foods, a symbol of perseverance. That makes this festive strawberry slab pie ideal for Juneteenth, though it’d be welcome anytime in berry season. The rectangular pie is made in a quarter sheet pan; if you don't have one, use a comparably sized casserole dish. Cracked black pepper in the crust and fresh ginger in the filling add a bit of spice. This isn't an especially sugary dessert, so if you want something sweeter, top it with vanilla ice cream.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

The food historian and writer Jessica B. Harris wrote a whole cookbook, “The Martha’s Vineyard Table” (Chronicle Books, 2013), paying tribute to the Massachusetts resort island where lobsters, oysters and farm-fresh vegetables are abundant. This dish is ideal for summer, when the tomatoes are overflowing. Dr. Harris loves to use okra in the place of beans, which are often an ingredient in succotash dishes. If you can’t find a habanero chile but still want to add heat, a small jalapeño will work. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

This Juneteenth showstopper, using a dry rub from Greg Collier, the chef and co-owner of Leah & Louise in Charlotte, N.C., is an ode to the flavors of the Mississippi Delta. The smoky, sweet, salty pork ribs slow roast in the oven, yielding tender meat seasoned with a traditional barbecue dry rub. You can substitute the pork for slab beef spareribs with equally good results, or use mushrooms for a vegetarian approach. Crushed peanuts and sweet-potato pikliz make the ribs a meal. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

One of the chef Edouardo Jordan’s fond memories is making the punch for family celebrations; he’d add layers of fresh fruit and juices to Hawaiian Punch or Tropical Punch Kool-Aid. Red drinks are a staple at Juneteenth gatherings for African-Americans across the U.S. The color is a reminder of the red kola nuts and bissap (commonly known as hibiscus tea), which made their way to the Americas as part of the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Cognac salutes black World War II soldiers’ love affair with the spirit and its continued popularity among African-American spirit drinkers, but any dark rum or whiskey is an excellent substitution. Find the best ripe strawberries for the simple syrup, and look for pineapple and pomegranate juices with no added sugar. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Haitian pikliz traditionally uses cabbage, but this version from Greg Collier, chef and co-owner of Leah & Louise in Charlotte, N.C., calls for grated sweet potato. It’s victory garden larder meets Caribbean flavor. If you have a well-stocked pantry, you are halfway to this relish, but note: Not every sweet potato is the same; look for the jewel variety for its vibrant orange flesh. This pikliz is mild in spice level compared to traditional versions. Serve it with Memphis Dry-Rub Ribs or Memphis Dry-Rub Mushrooms. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

This showstopper — using a dry rub adapted from Greg Collier, the chef and co-owner of Leah & Louise in Charlotte, N.C. — is an opportunity to explore different mushroom varieties. Black oyster mushrooms give a brawny bite, and effortlessly hold the soulful seasoning while getting the crispest, crunchiest edges. Fuzzy white lion’s mane or even portobellos work, too; just buy the biggest mushrooms you can find. This recipe uses Worcestershire sauce, which typically includes anchovies, so be sure to seek out vegan Worcestershire if you'd like to make the dish vegan. Serve with sweet potato pikliz. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

The name sounds like a sweet-tooth parade, but this recipe makes sense when you pair it with a spicy scallion cornmeal waffle. Wells’ Restaurant, a popular 1930s Harlem supper club, cemented the chicken and waffle combination in American culinary history; Amy Ruth’s in Harlem, Beans & Cornbread in suburban Detroit and Hotville in Los Angeles continue that tradition. Almost any summer-fruit jam can be substituted in the marinade, and if you don't have peanut oil, use another oil with a high smoke point.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Florida A&M, or FAMU, the historically Black college and university founded in 1887 in Tallahassee, canceled its homecoming celebrations for 2020 because of the Covid-19 pandemic. This whiskey cooler from Shameeka Ayers, an alumna, is Florida sunshine beamed into a glass. The orange and green are inspired by FAMU's colors; Ms. Ayers calls the drink the Three Strike, inspired by the school's “Strike, Strike and Strike Again” chant. The black tea adds depth and is refreshing year-round. The Uncle Nearest whiskey honors Nathan "Nearest" Green, the enslaved African who taught Jack Daniels how to distill.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

For many alumni, homecoming week at the nation’s H.B.C.U.s — historically Black colleges and universities — culminates with day parties and brunches, where waffles are almost always on the menu. These crispy, savory cornmeal waffles are a weekend must-make and fancier than a pancake stack. They are also the perfect base for berry-jam fried chicken. Use full-fat buttermilk here, and feel free to swap in the oil of your choice. A citrus salad with peanuts and avocado, or crispy tofu, make a lovely accompaniment if you don’t eat meat.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

George Washington Carver, the botanist, educator and inventor, was known as “the peanut man,” but he geeked out over sweet potatoes as much as peanuts. He recorded recipes for sweet potato flour, sweet potato starch and commercial canning. “The delicate flavor of a sweet potato is lost if it is not cooked properly,” he wrote in his 1936 Bulletin No. 38. (His paper booklets were distributed to rural farmers to assist with crop rotation and provide instructions for added-value products.) Dr. Carver considered baking the best way to cook sweet potatoes while preserving the most flavor. Use varieties like Covington, Vardaman or jewel; the sugary notes balance the alliums and warming spices. Raw vegetables or tortilla chips make practical dipping utensils for this spread, or lather the dip over toasted thick-cut bread.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Maati Kheprimeni Angaza, a professional dancer and home baker in Brooklyn, N.Y., brings her youthful energy to her Kwanzaa feast. Instead of making the time-honored offerings of bread pudding, sweet potato pie, nut-filled pound cake, and citrus-forward fruit salad, she fries festive vegan doughnuts. These airy and delicate colorful glazed desserts bridge the gap between welcoming new Kwanzaa food traditions and honoring the past. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

The final days of December for African-Americans mean playing games of bid whist and spades, and cultivating joy through seasonal dishes. For Rashad Frazier and his family in Portland, Ore., Kwanzaa is all about the food, Nguzo Saba (the seven principles) and honoring members of their families who have made their lives bright. Mr. Frazier is a personal chef and an avid outdoorsman; this rub is his go-to for highlighting fresh-caught fish, which he is serving for the holiday. Nicole Taylor

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Consumed plainly or with a salt sprinkle, fresh watermelon conjures warm-weather memories. In the U.S. (primarily in the American South), master gardeners are growing heirloom (seedful) varieties: sugar baby, jubilee and Georgia rattlesnake. In Apex, N.C., Gabrielle E.W. Carter is the new steward of the property once owned by her maternal great-grandfather, where she grows herbs, tomatoes and watermelon. As a multimedia artist, she is documenting the food ways of Black families in Eastern North Carolina and preserving cooking traditions using fruits and vegetables straight from the garden. Crimson-flesh watermelon transforms the classic panzanella with a balanced sweetness. Using a coarse grater is essential in achieving a vibrant, textured dressing. Bocconcini can be substituted for feta cheese in this salad, which pairs well with festive mains like dry-rub mushrooms and spicy tamarind pork ribs. Nicole Taylor, Yewande Komolafe

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

The sauce here relies on store-bought jam as a shortcut to intense fruit flavor and it is amazing on chicken. This recipe, adapted from the cookbook “Watermelon and Red Birds” by Nicole Taylor, is special enough for your Juneteenth celebration, but it’s so delicious, it can be cooked on a weekly rotation. Almost any fruit jam works, too, if peach isn’t your thing. As for the chicken itself, so much of the fat and flavor comes from the chicken skin that removing that outer layer is tantamount to robbing the meat of most of its taste, so do what it takes to find skin-on pieces. The crispy, charred chicken edges, drenched with the sauce, only happen with skin attached.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Either you hate coleslaw or it’s a must for your cookout plate. As a condiment, it makes sauce-drenched chicken or pork taste even better, balancing out any spice. The grilled poblanos are what make the difference in this dish, which is adapted from the cookbook “Watermelon and Red Birds” by Nicole Taylor. It does wonders for a barbecue staple.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

The recipe for this batch drink, from Nicole Taylor’s book, “Watermelon and Red Birds,” includes the juice from a red-fleshed watermelon, ideally from one with seeds. (They can be hard to find; seedless melons work too.) If you own a juicer, proceed with the seeds and all and don’t worry about straining. Watermelon is over 90 percent water and is a nutrient-dense food. This drink can serve as an everyday accompaniment at breakfast, lunch, dinner or with a snack.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

In the introduction to this recipe from her cookbook, “Watermelon and Red Birds,” Nicole Taylor notes that cooks in the Mediterranean and the Middle East know the acidic tang of crimson dried powdered sumac as a kitchen staple. Sumac doesn’t get a lot of love in American kitchens, even though edible sumac species grow wild throughout America and are essential in the Indigenous American kitchen. Dr. Cynthia Greenlee wrote about how foraging is back in style for a new generation of Black Americans. If you want to forage for the wild variety of sumac and dry and prepare the spice at home, the fall season is the time to do it. Look for sumac with red berry clusters, such as staghorn sumac. Be sure to avoid berries of any other color, which may be poison sumac.

Nicole Taylor · NYT Cooking

Kwanzaa gatherings continue to go strong in community centers and at home in dining rooms, as they have since 1966. The seven-day holiday of self-reflection, often an extension of Christmas or the winter solstice, culminates with the karamu, or feast. The spread leans heavily vegetarian. In Atlanta, Folami Prescott-Adams dries, seasons, fries and broils pounds of tofu. Store-bought, tomato-based barbecue sauce provides the comfort factor. She is a 40-year veteran of Kwanzaa and maintains a spreadsheet of potluck logistics for her family and guests. Alongside this vegetarian barbecue, Dr. Prescott-Adams’s buffet feeds more than 100 people, and the greatest hits include macaroni and cheese, red punch and black-eyed peas. Nicole Taylor

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Shabu shabu, which means “swish swish” in Japanese, is named for the sound the ingredients make when they’re cooking. This warm and festive style of Japanese hot pot is meant to be shared with family and friends, cooked and served tableside in a donabe over a portable gas stove. A beautiful variety of vegetables and beef or pork are sliced so they can quickly poach in the mild kombu, or dried kelp, broth. (Sometimes, the kombu is paired with a bonito dashi.) If you don’t have a donabe, a Dutch oven or similarly sized pot will do; the portable burner is a must, though. Use this recipe as a guide, and select the ingredients you like from each category. A trip to a Japanese or Asian market will take care of the shopping, but many of the ingredients here are available at standard grocery stores. Once everything has been prepped, all that is left is to gather around and cook together.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

This creamy and rich atole, or corn-based drink, is made with Mexican chocolate, cinnamon and raw cane sugar, then thickened with toasted masa harina for a soothing hot drink that is often served in cooler months and for holidays like Día De Los Muertos and Las Posadas. Piloncillo, a cone-shaped raw cane sugar, is usually added for sweetness, but you can use brown sugar in a pinch. If you’d like to experiment, add warm, whole spices, such as cloves and star anise, or orange peel to the simmering pot. Traditionally, champurrado is prepared in a clay pot and mixed with a molinillo, a wooden whisk, to make the drink frothy, but for a similar effect, continually whisk the champurrado, or use an immersion blender to froth it up right before serving. Champurrado is often served with hot, crispy churros alongside.