Recipes

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Unagi no tare, or Japanese eel sauce, is a salty-sweet combination of soy sauce, mirin, sugar and sake that is typically brushed over grilled eel and eel sushi. It’s similar to teriyaki sauce, but sweeter, and can be thickened to your liking. Besides using it as a glaze, try eel sauce as a marinade or dipping sauce for any number of dishes, such as chicken, fish, eggplant, mushrooms or tofu. Or, drizzle over rice, noodles or stir-fries.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Crisp, light and airy, the coating for battered and fried shrimp tempura is achieved with a few simple, though crucial, steps: Using seltzer in the batter adds airiness, and chilling the ingredients, including the flour, prevents gluten formation, making it more delicate and light. It’s important not to overmix the batter, and using chopsticks as the stirring tool helps. Finally, don’t overcrowd the pot when frying, and make sure to maintain the oil’s temperature so the shrimp don’t absorb it and become greasy. For a classic shrimp tempura, follow the prep steps here as best as you can to keep the shrimp from curling. Serve the dish hot with tentsuyu, a savory dashi and soy dipping sauce.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

For crackly crisp yet juicy tonkatsu, or Japanese pork cutlets, pound boneless pork loins until impossibly thin, dredge in flour, egg and panko, then deep-fry, not once, but twice. (After the first fry, the pork rests for a bit, allowing it to finish cooking from the residual heat without drying out. It’s quickly fried a second time until golden brown.) Drizzle the finished pork cutlets with tonkatsu sauce, a spiced, sweet and tangy sauce. Here, ketchup and Worcestershire make for a quick rendition, but you can also purchase premade sauce at Japanese markets and online. Serve piping hot tonkatsu and rice alongside a heap of cold shredded cabbage drizzled with a creamy dressing, if you like.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

A fragrant, fluffy buttery rice pilaf is pure comfort. The word pilaf generally refers to a rice dish in which the grains are toasted in a fat like butter, ghee or oil before being cooked in broth or other liquid, and the dish’s many iterations span the globe from Central and South Asia, the Caucasus and Eastern Europe to the Caribbean. (Other grains like barley and bulgur, and noodles such as vermicelli or orzo – see Tip – can also be included.) In this simple version, onion and garlic are cooked in butter, which is then used to toast long-grain basmati rice until nutty and gently seasoned. The process of first rinsing the rice, then toasting in fat, prevents clumping. The amount of added liquid may vary slightly depending on the brand of rice, but do cut down on the salt if using a salted broth. With this base, you can get as creative as you like and add a variety of vegetables, herbs, spices, chopped nuts, dried fruit, ground meat or even shrimp. Or serve as is alongside chicken, fi

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Bursting with sweetness, tang and a little heat, mango salsa is the colorful sidekick that’s always invited to the party. A balance of flavor and texture is key to building this simple condiment. Choose ripe but not mushy mangoes so the flesh doesn’t fall apart. For a contrast in textures, use one riper mango and one less ripe mango. The sharp bite from the red onion and the heat from the chile pleasantly complement the sweetness of the fruit. Add as much lime juice as you like to wake up the taste, and don’t forget to season with a little salt to draw out all the natural flavors. Have fun adding other ingredients like avocado, pomegranate seeds, cucumber and jicama, plus a sprinkle of Tajín for an extra kick. Serve with tortilla chips or pita triangles for scooping, or alongside grilled meats, fish or tacos. Mango salsa is best served the day it's made, but will keep covered in the fridge for up to two days.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Temptingly seasoned salt and pepper shrimp is a Cantonese dish that takes little effort to prepare and is a joy to eat. Jiao yan is the salt and pepper mixture that livens up the fried shrimp with a quick jolt of flavor. It is typically prepared with white pepper, or, for a fiery heat, with Sichuan peppercorns, but you can also use black pepper (if using Sichuan peppercorns, use 1 part peppercorns to 3 parts salt). Toasting whole peppercorns and then grinding them draws out even more flavor. This recipe makes more of the seasoning than you may need, but you can store the mixture and use it on tofu, chicken, pork chops or vegetables. Coating the shrimp in cornstarch and then shallow-frying makes for an irresistibly crunchy exterior and juicy interior. For the classic restaurant-style preparation, use head-on, shell-on shrimp (the shell is edible when fried), but use peeled shrimp if that’s easier, and don’t be shy with the salt and pepper mix. Serve either as an appetizer with a cooling

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Sipping on an agua fresca is like doing a cannonball into a crisp, cold lake on the hottest of summer days. Cooling, thirst-quenching and uplifting, the drink is widely consumed in Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. In the United States, the invigorating beverage is found on the menus of many Mexican restaurants, but it’s also sold by street vendors. Meaning fresh water in Spanish, refreshing aguas frescas are a blend of water, sugar and often lime juice with a variety of ripe fruits, dried flowers or nuts and grains. How much sugar you add depends on the sweetness of the fruit. Agave syrup may also be used as a sweetener. The mixture is typically strained to remove pulp, but you can skip straining if you prefer. The fruit suggestions below — melons, pineapple, strawberry, cucumber and mango — work great, but you can try any variety of fruit, like oranges, peaches, bananas or tamarind. Serve agua fresca on ice, or cover and chill in the refrigerator before serving.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Adobo, often referred to as the national dish of the Philippines, is a braise of meat, seafood or vegetables in a mouth-watering sauce of vinegar, soy sauce and other spices (and sometimes a coconut milk). It is a technique that has been used by Filipinos long before colonization, and variations abound by region, household and personal taste. This version calls for bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces, but you can also use boneless, if you prefer (see Tip). Cane vinegar, available at specialty markets and online, is used here for its mild flavor, but you may also use white, cider or rice vinegar. The signature, irresistible tang from the vinegar may be balanced with sugar to taste. Serve with rice, generously spooning the zippy sauce on top.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Crunchy, savory and well-seasoned with cumin, turmeric and chiles, fried vegetable pakora are a popular South Asian street food and snack. Pakoras are a perfect opportunity to use up just about any vegetables you have on hand. This version uses thinly sliced onion, potatoes and carrots, which get extracrispy when fried. Broccoli, cauliflower, sweet potato, peppers or cabbage also work well; and you can also grate or chop the vegetables rather than slicing them, if preferred. The thick, sticky batter is prepared with nutty gram or chickpea flour, but rice flour can also be used, just be sure to add the water judiciously. Pakora are best served right away, but they can also be stored in a closed container in the fridge and reheated in a hot oven for a couple of minutes. Serve pakora with mint chutney for dipping, and chai to drink alongside.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Vegetarian Ethiopian dishes are a hallmark of Genet Agonafer’s menu at her acclaimed restaurant in Los Angeles, Meals by Genet. Tikel gomen, a flavorful, turmeric-tinged cabbage dish, is simple to prepare without compromising on taste. Ms. Agonafer prepares her tikel gomen (meaning cabbage in Amharic) with fork-tender carrots; other versions may also include potatoes. The cabbage is silky without being mushy and stands up well to the pronounced garlic. To achieve just the right texture and flavor, Ms. Agonafer first boils the finely chopped onion before cooking it in oil with the rest of the ingredients. Tikel gomen is typically served with injera; while not traditional, it can also be served with rice or any bread of choice. Naz Deravian

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Assertively sour, injera is a spongy, round flatbread that serves as a nutrient-rich staple of the Ethiopian diet, as well as a serving plate and utensil. Preparing injera in the traditional method takes a lot of practice and just the right set of circumstances for the days’ long fermentation of the batter. This version is adapted from a recipe created by Steven May for a company that makes electric griddles specifically for cooking injera. The recipe uses 100 percent teff flour, but streamlines the fermentation process for the novice. It is not quite as sour and shortens the fermentation time with the addition of baking powder. The hallmark of a well-made injera is the “eyes,” the tiny holes that pop up on the surface of the batter as soon as it hits the hot pan. Ideally, you want many eyes to pop up on the top, plus a smooth surface underneath. (If you have eyes underneath, it’s a sign that your heat is too high.) The consistency of the batter should be somewhere between a pancake ba

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

A mainstay of dim sum, siu mai are open-faced steamed dumplings filled with juicy, seasoned pork, and sometimes shrimp and shiitake mushrooms, like in this version. Dim sum, a variety of small dishes meant to be shared, roughly means heart’s delight in Cantonese. Its origins are thought to date back to the tea houses along the Silk Road in Southern China where weary travelers shared small bites of food alongside their tea. Unlike other more intricate dumplings, wrapping siu mai is not too fussy. For their signature buttery hue, use round, yellow dumpling wrappers, sometimes labeled “Hong Kong Style.” Adding cornstarch to the meat filling is a Chinese culinary technique called velveting, which ensures the meat is juicy with a silken, velvety texture. For added contrast, add chopped water chestnuts to the filling. Top the siu mai with fish roe (or finely chopped carrot) for a pop of color, and serve with black vinegar, soy sauce and chile paste for dipping.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Genet Agonafer, chef owner of Meals by Genet, offers an array of dishes using a variety of legumes at her award-winning Ethiopian restaurant in Los Angeles. Alitcha kik is a comforting, protein-packed yellow split pea dish that is spiced and tinted with turmeric. Alitcha refers to a meat or vegetable stew prepared without berbere, the fragrant, chile-based spice mix widely used in Ethiopian cuisine. According to Ms. Agonafer, the foundation of most Ethiopian dishes is onion. To properly cook down the finely chopped onion, she quickly boils it and then cooks it in oil with crushed garlic and the rest of the ingredients. Yellow split peas need plenty of water to soften. Alitcha kik shouldn’t be too thick; add water as necessary for a creamy consistency. Alitcha kik is traditionally served with injera, but it also pairs well with rice or bread of choice. Naz Deravian

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Capable of soothing the soul, lifting spirits and energizing the body, upma is a popular breakfast food in parts of India (and beyond), where protein- and nutrient-rich semolina is a canvas for more potent and invigorating savory flavors. For this fluffy and flavorful preparation, coarse-grain semolina (called rava in the south of India and sooji in the north) is toasted in the pan and then cooked in water flavored with tempered spices, like sizzling black mustard seeds, plus aromatic curry leaves and toasted urad and chana dals, creating a thick, savory porridge. Cashew nuts or peanuts lend a happy crunch, and the chiles wake everything up with a touch of heat. You can also add a small handful of vegetables to the mix, like frozen green peas, chopped green beans and carrots. The water-to-semolina ratio ensures the upma is fluffy and light rather than mushy like oatmeal. Serve bowls of fragrant, belly-warming upma with a squeeze of lemon, extra sugar and coconut chutney for a satisfyin

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Fluffy, tender and slightly tangy, idli is a South Indian breakfast staple. The wild fermentation of idli rice, along with urad dal and fenugreek seeds, makes for nutrient-rich and protein-packed steamed rice cakes. The addition of poha (flattened rice flakes) ensures that the idlis turn out soft and fluffy. Use an Indian wet grinder or a blender to grind the ingredients, along with their yeast-rich soaking water, into a thick paste. For the right texture and requisite tangy flavor, the batter needs up to 24 hours to ferment. (In colder climates, you might need to soak the ingredients longer; in the hotter ones, you might need less time to ferment.) The fermented batter will keep, covered, in the fridge for up to 5 days, so you can whip up idlis as you like. To steam the rice cakes, you’ll need an idli stand. (They’re available at Indian markets and online, as are the ingredients.) Serve idlis with coconut chutney and sambar, or any chutneys you like, such as mango-tamarind, cranberry

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Just as beautiful to look at as to eat, chirashi, meaning scattered in Japanese, is a colorful dish often served on celebratory occasions. The sushi rice, seasoned with rice vinegar and barely a hint of sugar, lays the foundation for a kaleidoscope of flavorful and textured toppings that vary by region and family. This version is a home-style chirashi scattered with a variety of vegetables and cooked fish, including sake-steamed shrimp and sticky sweet grilled eel (unagi). A savory vegetable mix of shiitake mushrooms, carrot and kanpyo (dried gourd strips) add texture and fill out the rice. For a splash of color and added protein (you can skip the fish altogether and add more vegetables for a vegetarian dish), bright yellow kinshi tamago (egg ribbons) are scattered on top like thin party streamers. Crisp ginger-pickled lotus root enlivens everything, and rosy-hued ikara (salmon roe) pop with subtle flavor from the sea. Preparing this dish from scratch is a multistep project, but you ca

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Asian milk bread, also known as Japanese milk bread or Hokkaido bread, is pillowy soft and buttery with a hint of sweetness. Tangzhong, the traditional Chinese technique of cooking flour and liquid (milk, water or a combination) into a paste and adding it to the dough when cooled, is the key to full, airy-soft, squishy buns that stay fresh longer. (You can also use this technique for cinnamon buns or hot cross buns.) These pull-apart rolls are a version of milk bread popular at Asian bakeries. The dough, with the addition of tangzhong, is supple and easy to work with. You can shape the rolls into balls or, for a little flair, twist them into knots. Use a round 9-inch cake pan, or similar pan, to bake the bread.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Soften the sharp edge of raw garlic cloves by pickling them in a tangy and salty brine studded with a medley of flavorings. Refrigerated pickled garlic (see Tip) adds a pop of flavor to a variety dishes and spreads. Add pickled garlic to a charcuterie board or party board (it’s particularly good alongside tinned fish), or chopped into salads or salsas, or blended into dressings and sauces. Use any combination of added flavorings you like; consider mustard seeds, juniper berries, peppercorns or coriander seeds. While it’s tempting to use pre-peeled garlic, it’s best to set aside a little time and peel your own (pre-peeled garlic very quickly loses its potency, sharp scent and flavor). Gently whack each clove with the side of a knife and then peel, or use one of those handy silicone tube peelers.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Savory, creamy and tinglingly spiced, coconut chutney is a staple South Indian condiment that can be prepared with endless variations. For the best texture, use fresh or frozen grated coconut. You can simply use frozen grated coconut available at Indian markets. Or, if you’re up for a fun task, you can crack into a fresh coconut, peel and grate it. While desiccated (dried and grated) unsweetened coconut can be used with the addition of a little more water, it won’t have quite the same texture. The chutney is thickened with roasted chana dal (you can also use peanuts) and spiced with green chile and garlic. Swap out the garlic for ginger, if you prefer. And don’t skip drizzling on the tadka (spiced oil) which makes everything sing and sizzle with a welcome crunch and heat. For a comforting and nutritious South Indian breakfast, serve coconut chutney with idli and sambar; or dosas. Coconut chutney is best served the day it’s made but will keep covered in the refrigerator for up to two da

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Lush and creamy, éclair cake is a dessert popular in the Midwest and beyond that’s perfect for any gathering, celebration or potluck. Inspired by the flavors of the classic French éclair pastry, this no-bake American iteration is reminiscent of an icebox cake. Typically, graham crackers are softened under layers of a pillowy smooth mix of vanilla pudding and whipped topping, and covered with rich chocolate. This version uses homemade crème légère (a fluffy mix of pastry cream and whipped cream) and a simple homemade semi-sweet chocolate ganache. The crème légère might sound fussy, but the preparation here is streamlined (no tempering of eggs required) and makes for a just-sweet-enough creamy filling. (Of course, in a pinch, you can swap in store-bought pudding and whipped topping.) Éclair cake needs chilling time, which makes it a great make-ahead dessert, and is best served after 24 hours in the fridge.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Loaded with a rainbow of vegetables and protein-packed toor dal (split pigeon peas), sambar is a comforting South Indian stew that’s tangy with tamarind and typically served for breakfast topped with a spicy, crunchy tadka (spiced ghee or oil). Sambar powder, the namesake of the dish, is a mix of fragrant spices like coriander and cumin, and pulses such as roasted chana dal and urad dal. Toast your spices and grind them for a fragrant and fresh homemade sambar powder. You can also use the jarred spice mix available at Indian markets. In addition to sunny butternut squash and the other suggested vegetables, feel free to swap in or add others like green beans or eggplant. Serve sambar with idli and coconut chutney; dosas; or rice.

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

These tender, buttery, crisp buttermilk biscuits satisfy all urgent cravings. You can happily set aside any hesitancy about preparing biscuits because these tangy, fluffy ones come together quickly — no cutting cold butter into flour or rolling out dough. The batter is combined in one bowl and then spread over melted butter, giving the impression of a batter swimming in butter, as the name suggests. While the biscuits bake, they absorb all the buttery goodness and crisp up around the edges. Butter swim biscuits are best served warm and fresh out of the oven but will keep covered at room temperature for up to one day (see Tip).

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

A soothing, restorative bowl of beef phở, the national dish of Vietnam, is defined by the quality of the broth, according to Thuy Diem Pham, chef and owner of The Little Viet Kitchen in London. Regionality and geography distinguishes various styles of phở. According to Ms. Pham, in the cooler climate of northern Vietnam, phở is saltier, and to keep the broth hot, it is mainly topped with just sliced onion. In the south, “the broth is sweeter and because of the hotter climate, tons of herbs are thrown in to cool down the broth.” This recipe, adapted from Ms. Pham’s cookbook, “The Little Viet Kitchen” (Absolute Press, 2019), is in the southern style which is where her family is from. Ideally, the broth should be light and clear like chicken broth, not murky and dark. To achieve the telltale golden broth, beef bones, oxtail and ribs are first soaked, then parboiled, and finally gently simmered along with brisket, spices and aromatics for many hours. This is a slow, luxurious project, best

Naz Deravian · NYT Cooking

Light and airy potatoes Romanoff are a nostalgic side dish popularized by chef John Schenk, formerly of Strip House steakhouses, who has credited his mother with preparing the dish using leftover baked russet potatoes. Whole russets are baked a day in advance and completely cooled in the refrigerator overnight for this version. This ensures the potatoes remain fluffy and don’t get mushy and wet. The potatoes are then grated (skins on) and gently tossed with shallots, Cheddar and sour cream. For the signature, almost souffle-like texture, take care to aerate the mixture, gently tossing it rather than mashing. A classic oval baking dish is ideal to mound the mixture and bake it in the oven, set in a hot water bath, but any oven-safe casserole dish will do. (Smaller individual dishes work as well.) Potatoes Romanoff complete a steak dinner and are equally welcome alongside a roast chicken or a holiday turkey. Naz Deravian