Recipes

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Canlis, a longtime Seattle institution, floats high above Lake Union. A menu highlight is the Canlis salad, which is in some measure a basic steakhouse salad: chopped romaine with bacon and croutons and cherry tomatoes, all cloaked in a thick, lemony dressing that recalls Caesar (you all did love him once, and not without cause). But a strong scent of the Middle East flows through it as well, courtesy of the Canlis clan’s roots in Greece and Lebanon, with heaps of chopped mint and oregano mixed in with the greens. These combine with the bright, eggy taste of the dressing to elevate the entirety far beyond the confines of a salad to be eaten simply with meat and potatoes. A Canlis salad, properly prepared, is a revelation. Sam Sifton

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

This classic wet brine is adapted from an old Yankee Magazine recipe for a traditional New England roast turkey. It yields a moist and tender bird.

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Here’s a simple, foolproof way to prepare brussels sprouts: Toss with a little olive oil or bacon fat, salt and pepper and roast until tender inside and crisp outside. Finish with a little red-pepper flakes or a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, if you'd like. This recipe serves two, but it doubles or triples easily.

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredient list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. Start with the pork chops, as many as you need, on the bone if possible. Dredge them in flour that you’ve mixed with chile powder, salt, black pepper, smoked paprika and red-pepper flakes, or with Lawry’s seasoned salt or Old Bay seasoning or any spice you like, really. (Save what’s left of the flour; you’ll use it later.) Then sear the chops, in batches if you have to, in an oil-slicked Dutch oven or heavy cast-iron pan, over fairly high heat. You want a big, flavorful crust on the meat before you braise it with the onions, to enhance the taste of the sauce and provide a little texture. Set the seared chops on a platter. Throw away what oil is left in the pot, and wipe out the pot. Return it to the stove, and set over medium heat. Add some butter, and when it melts and foams, use it to sauté an enormous number of sliced onions, allowing them to wilt and soften and almo

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Jane Nickerson was the food editor of The New York Times from 1942 until 1957, when she moved with her family to Lakeland, Fla. There, she eventually became food editor of The Ledger, in Lakeland, then owned by The Times. Her successor in New York was Craig Claiborne, whose star eclipsed hers for, among other things, systemic reasons we wrestle with still. But Ms. Nickerson was a hugely influential force in American home cooking, introducing ingredients and recipes from chefs and home cooks to a nation that met her first on a wartime footing and grew to find itself on a prosperous one. In Florida, she embraced local ingredients and foodways, and in 1973 published “Jane Nickerson’s Florida Cookbook,” an invaluable guide to the state’s appetizing abundance. Her lime pie is a little richer than the more well-known Key lime pie. I like that about it. Sam Sifton

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Traditional red-cooked dishes — they take their name from the mahogany color the sauce imparts to the meat — are simple braises of rice wine, light and dark soy sauces, with some sugar and aromatics. The version Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin and Quealy Watson serve at Best Quality Daughter, their restaurant in San Antonio, turbocharges that formula. Dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns bring fire and tingle, and star anise and cinnamon provide warmth. There’s a whisper of orange, a bite of ginger. Tomato paste and doubanjiang, a fermented chile bean paste, offer depth. Do take the time to use some of the braising liquid to serve as the base for the finishing glaze, thick and glossy as demi-glace. It’s worth it. Sam Sifton

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

This is a very old recipe, taken from the kitchen of Henri’s in Lynbrook, N.Y., opened by an extravagant French restaurateur named Henri Charpentier in 1910. It asks for flounder, known on Long Island as fluke, but you could make it with cod or haddock or halibut, with freshwater trout or catfish, with any mild-flavored fish. It’s an elegant and really quite simple preparation, the fish fillets baked on top of and beneath a butter sauce cooked with chopped shallots, garlic, chives, parsley and minced mushrooms, brightened with lemon juice and white wine, and with bread crumbs, sliced mushrooms and dots of butter strewn across the top. You can make the sauce in the morning, if you like, and assemble the dish for the oven just before dinner, making it a breeze for weeknight entertaining. But it’s no stretch to do it all, as Charpentier might have said, “à la minute.” Sam Sifton

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredient list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen. Here's the prompt: bulgogi-style tofu. It’s simple. Press some firm tofu to extract as much liquid as you can. Make a marinade of soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil, minced garlic, grated ginger, a spoonful of gochujang, a splash of neutral oil, some sliced scallions and toasted sesame seeds. Slice the tofu into bite-size cubes, and slide them into the marinade. Let that sit — a half-hour works; a few hours works better. Then roast them in a hot oven on an oiled foil-lined pan until they’re crisp. Serve with bibb lettuce cups to wrap them in, with rice, kimchi and a dipping sauce of ssamjang and a little bit more gochujang thinned out with neutral oil and sherry vinegar. (If not, go with sesame oil and ground white pepper.) That’s a fine dinner. For more recipe recommendations from Sam Sifton, Melissa Clark and New York Times Cooking, sign up to receive the Cooking news

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Here is the archetype of a thin-crust pizza pie, a pizza margherita adorned simply in the colors of the Italian flag: green from basil, white from mozzarella, red from tomato sauce. This pizza is adapted from the recipe used by the staff at Roberta’s restaurant in Brooklyn, who make their tomato sauce simply by whizzing together canned tomatoes, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt. The ingredients offer in their proportions what appears to be a kind of austerity — not even 3 ounces of cheese! But the result is home-cooked pizza to beat the band, exactly the sort of recipe to start a career in home pizza-making, and to return to again and again. Sam Sifton

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

There’s no trick to these loaded potato skins, and making them is a breeze. Pile them high with toppings and broil until they look like something you may have eaten at an Irish bar in the bad part of town during college, the game playing on a big screen above the bathroom doors. That bar was pretty good, you know.

Sam Sifton · NYT Cooking

Here is a sandwich version of the Korean barbecue standard known as bulgogi — “fire meat,” is the literal translation — and a taste of the sort of home cooking that can lead to more home cooking. It serves as a fragrant hamburger crusher, an elegant vanquisher of pizza. It is an enemy of takeout. I learned the recipe from Hooni Kim, the chef and owner of Danji, on the edge of the theater district in Manhattan, where bulgogi “sliders” are a hallmark of the menu and by far the restaurant’s most popular dish. It’s been adapted for use in the home. Sam Sifton

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

This Instagram-famous drink, known as whipped coffee or dalgona coffee, is made by whipping instant coffee with sugar and water, resulting in a butterscotch-hued foam that’s spooned over milk. While it seems like a trend, many have been making whipped coffee for years. In India and Pakistan, whipped coffee has long been a popular home brew, known as phenti hui. In Greece, the frappé is dalgona’s older, frothier sibling. And, more generally, there are versions that are shaken with egg whites and served with condensed milk.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

These pillowy, festive cookies are great to have in your back pocket when you’re in the mood for a quick holiday treat. Rum extract, widely available during the holidays, is the secret to replicating that classic eggnog flavor. An extra egg yolk in the dough and a dusting of nutmeg-sugar yield a cookie that’s custard-like on the inside and crisp on the outside. These are even better the second day, and keep very well in an airtight container at room temperature. This season, forgo the eggnog altogether and enjoy these cookies with a bourbon neat. (Watch Vaughn Vreeland make his Eggnog Snickerdoodles.)

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

This edible cocktail is an ideal party dessert, mingling all the fun of a margarita — and its salted rim — with the efficiency of a slab pie. Key lime pie’s boozier, saltier cousin, it comes together quickly and maintains its consistency when frozen, making it a great make-ahead treat for a barbecue or a trip to the beach. Any tequila will work, but blanco is preferred for its milder taste. Don’t make the curd more than 10 minutes in advance, as the lime juice will start to thicken it, which could affect the bake.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Brownies can be contentious. You may be an edge person or someone who loves middle pieces, a fudgy fanatic or a cakey purist. These cookies will please all brownie lovers, with chewy edges, tender centers and crunch from crushed peppermint candies. While any unsweetened cocoa powder will work in this recipe, Dutch-processed cocoa will make the cookies taste more chocolaty and round out their peppermint flavor. Whisking the eggs and sugars for a long time may seem fussy, but this process gives the cookie body, makes the batter easier to scoop and ensures a shiny top, the hallmark of any good brownie.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Alluringly rosy and ultra-refreshing, the Honey Deuce, a spiked lemonade, is just one reason thousands flock to Flushing, Queens, at the end of summer in search of long rallies and star-studded stands. It’s the official drink of the U.S. Open, the final major tennis tournament of each year. A satisfyingly light cocktail, it tastes like a grown-up pink lemonade, and this version makes a batch large enough to quench the thirsts of a crowd. Store-bought lemonade is bolstered by fresh lemon juice to temper its sweetness, while honeydew melon, scooped to resemble tennis balls, sits atop each glass, serving up an easy way to transport yourself to center court.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Biting into one of these cookies is like taking the first sip of a festive beverage, and their spiced coffee fragrance gives your kitchen cozy holiday vibes. A combination of fresh and ground ginger adds an extra note of warmth that accentuates the coffee flavor and other spices, while the espresso-sugar coating creates crisp edges that yield to pillowy-soft interiors. Pair it with your milk of choice and you have a gingerbread latte in a single bite.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

If its name is any indication, this retro Southern no-bake dessert maximizes flavor — and it does so while minimizing time, effort and ingredients. Layers of graham cracker crust, tangy cream cheese and canned cherry pie filling create a dessert that straddles a no-bake cheesecake and a classic trifle. The graham cracker crust sets as it chills, lending both texture and a toasty flavor that balances the rich dairy and the sweet pie filling. Almond extract, though optional, complements the cherries perfectly. Yum-yum is the perfect blank canvas party dessert — you can amend it with different cookie bases (Oreos or gingersnaps); flavorings in the cream (Kirsch or almond liqueur); and pie fillings (apple or berry) to suit all seasons and tastes.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Key limes, with their distinct tartness and slightly floral aroma, lend a delightfully sharp flavor to this classic American pie. They can be hard to find, especially out of season and outside of Florida, and juicing the diminutive limes can sometimes feel like a big effort. This recipe allows you to choose your own adventure: fresh fruit for Key lime purists, bottled stuff for shortcut seekers, or a blend of Persian lime juice (from the limes most commonly found in grocery stores) bolstered with a little lemon juice, for those seeking a solid substitution. The amount of salt in the crust may seem like a lot, but it offsets the tart curd and rich whipped topping. Try adding ¼ cup of unsweetened shredded coconut to the crust for a fun twist on the classic. This pie freezes like a dream, providing a great make-ahead dessert and a taste of the beach any time.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

The simple act of browning butter takes this holiday mainstay from simple to superb in a matter of minutes. Russet potatoes are the perfect blank canvas for the toasty, nutty notes of the brown butter, which is lifted to a starring role as it permeates the potatoes and pools on top. Mashed potato purists may say that using a ricer or food mill is the only way to achieve a creamy texture, but a hand mixer or potato masher works just as well, as long as you don’t overmix and your potatoes stay hot. Make sure to create divots for the pools of brown butter that sit atop the dish, which make each spoonful feel extra luxe.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Classic buttermilk chess pie is quintessential in many Southern homes and its chocolate counterpart is all the more decadent. You can use store-bought pie dough or take the homemade route because the true star of this dessert is its luxurious chocolate filling, slightly firmer than custard but fudgier than a brownie. With just a few staple ingredients, this supremely easy filling requires less than 10 minutes of active time and minimal effort, but yields big-time flavor. It’s also highly adaptable: try adding a tablespoon of bourbon or a couple teaspoons of espresso powder with the cocoa powder. A velvety slice of this chocolate chess pie goes best with a dollop of whipped cream on top, and some bourbon, neat, alongside.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

These spiced and spicy cookies, chocolaty and brimming with molten marshmallow, are a terrific treat to keep you warm in the colder months. The dough itself is imbued with cinnamon and a bit of ground cayenne, a combination commonly found in Mexican hot chocolate that also gives these cookies a flavor reminiscent of the holidays — and a slight kick when you least expect it. The marshmallowy interior provides a wonderful chew and maintains a pillowy soft texture, even after a few days in an airtight container. Make sure to freeze the marshmallows fully to give the cookies their hallmark ripple of white peeking through their sparkly chocolate exterior. (Otherwise, the marshmallows will dissolve into the cookies as they bake.)

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

This boozy variation on classic carrot cake is imbued with both freshly grated and ground ginger, giving it a spiced aroma that pairs wonderfully with the rum-soaked raisins and crushed pineapple (which makes the cake particularly tender). Rum plays a central role in this cake: It’s first used to soak raisins until plump, then the leftover liquid is added to the cake batter as well as the frosting, ensuring very little waste and a cake that lives up to its name. Slowly beating the cream cheese into the butter-sugar mixture will ensure a sturdy frosting that can stand up to the heft of the cake layers. For the creamiest frosting, be sure to take your time, as cream cheese frosting can become runny or lumpy if mixed too fast. This cake is perfect for any time of year — enjoy it as the tulips bloom, bring it to your summer barbecue or curl up with a slice next to the fire alongside a dark ’n’ stormy.

Vaughn Vreeland · NYT Cooking

Great fried chicken at home is much easier than you might think. This version celebrates the tangy, herbaceous complexity of ranch seasoning, which is whisked into buttermilk to create an easy brine that ensures a flavorful, juicy end result. A whole chicken works best: Cutting it into parts takes a bit of practice but saves money and yields a good variety of pieces. (If looking for a shortcut, a mixture of thighs and drumsticks works well too.) After the chicken is brined, it’s dredged in flour seasoned with onion powder and garlic powder, echoing ranch seasoning, and supplemented with cornstarch, which yields a delightfully crispy exterior that holds up very well to chilling, for those among us who love cold fried chicken. Don’t be afraid to fry at home! This chicken fries in a large, deep Dutch oven — and it fries mostly covered, which helps reduce any mess. Maintain the right oil temperature and follow the visual cues to determine doneness, and you’ll be fine.