Rick A. Martínez

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Many salsas are fresh, raw and bright. But this pico de gallo turns a corner. A smoky corner. Finely chopped chipotles in adobo end up glazing the soft pieces of avocado, and it tastes deep and charred, even though it takes all of five minutes to make. It shouldn’t taste this good. But it does. Serve on sandwiches or tostadas, or with a bowl of plantain chips.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

These chicken and avocado-stuffed arepas, which are known as reina pepiada (or curvy queen), were created in honor of Susana Dujim, a Venezuelan beauty queen who was crowned Miss World in 1955. The 1950s also marked the invention of precooked corn flour, now known as masarepa, by a Venezuelan engineer. But arepas were around for hundreds of years throughout Latin America before that, the corn patties sometimes served whole or split, then filled with countless combinations. Preparing them used to be labor-intensive, but masarepa gives arepas a light and creamy texture without a lot of effort. Unlike cornmeal used for cornbread or muffins, which is ground dried uncooked corn, masarepa is ground from cooked corn and conveniently sold as dried corn flour. Masa harina is ground uncooked corn treated with other ingredients and is used to make tortillas and other dishes. Neither cornmeal nor masa harina can be substituted for masarepa, which is available online and in many supermarkets.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Atole is often thought of as a sweet, drinkable corn-based beverage, but in parts of Mexico, it also refers to this hearty, savory porridge made with masa harina and hominy. This version, inspired by the traditional atole de grano, is thick, creamy and deeply comforting — perfect for showcasing the variety of textures and flavors that different forms of corn can bring. Here, sweet corn kernels and chewy hominy add dimension to the velvety base, while a topping of roasted chicken and caramelized poblanos brings savory depth. A final flourish of lime, chicharrones and hot sauce adds brightness and crunch. Quick to come together and endlessly adaptable, this dish is a warm embrace in a bowl.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Originating with the Taíno people of eastern Dominican Republic, barbacoa is a method of cooking meat whose name comes from the Arawak word barbaca. In Mexico, barbacoa is a style of slow cooking large cuts of beef, lamb, goat and pork. Depending on regionality, the meat is cooked over an open fire or in an underground pit called a pibil, wrapped in agave or banana leaves, often covered with earth, then slow roasted overnight. In this version, beef is oven roasted at a low temperature in a sauce made from dried chiles, herbs and spices, until the meat is so tender it easily shreds.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Originally, birria was developed as a way to tame tough and gamey goat meat by marinating it in a rich and spicy adobo sauce then slow cooking it until it was falling off the bones. The meat was shredded and served in bowls with the braising liquid (called consomé) ladled over top. The consomé-infused meat was put into tortillas with cilantro, onion and salsa and eaten with more consomé on the side or used as a dipping sauce. Because this recipe takes advantage of leftover turkey that is already cooked, the carcass is used to make a quick consomé flavored with canned fire roasted tomatoes, dried chiles and spices. Add the shredded turkey at the end to warm it up and let it soak up all the flavor. For the salsa, use leftover cranberry sauce; homemade or canned both work great. If using canned and you have a choice between whole-berry and jellied, choose the whole-berry sauce — the salsa will have even more texture.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

In Mexico, the bolillo is the daily bread you pick up on the way home, still warm from the panadería. It’s commonly used as the base of a torta, split and sandwiched with meat (like milanesa, carnitas or jamón), beans, avocado, pickled jalapeños and salsa. At breakfast, it’s toasted for open-faced molletes, topped with refried beans, melted cheese and salsa. In northern Mexico and along the border, bolillos often replace hot dog buns, especially for Sonoran-style hot dogs, wrapped in bacon and piled with beans, crema, mustard and salsa. Its flavor is neutral, its crumb tight but soft and sturdy enough to hold heavy, wet fillings yet tender enough to compress when bitten. Deeply golden with a slightly crisp crust, these bolillos have a soft interior designed to revientar, or spring cleanly when cut. Butter or oil is brushed directly into the score in the top, allowing the loaf to expand down the center, producing the classic panadería-style submarine-like shape.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Sold in the markets and street stalls of Puebla, chanclas poblanas are made with a slightly flattened, flour-dusted, oval-shaped bun called pan para chanclas which gets its rise and flavor from pulque, a fermented alcoholic drink made from the maguey plant. (Chancla, which means flip-flop or sandal, refers to the shape.) Then, they’re opened and stuffed with chorizo and bathed in a rich tomato-guajillo salsa. They’re messy, but they can be eaten with your hands or a fork and a knife.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This plant-based take on a Mexican picadillo trades the traditional ground meat for a deeply savory mix of mushrooms, tofu and chickpeas, simmered with tangy tomatillos, poblano and scallions until everything melds into a rich, comforting hash. A box grater gives the tofu a ground meat-like texture that crisps beautifully in the pan, while the tomatillos add a tart freshness that keeps each bite lively and light. This weeknight-friendly dish is flavorful and deeply satisfying — especially when served alongside rice and beans or made into tacos or burritos. Make a double batch and freeze the leftovers: This is the kind of comfort food whose flavor gets better with time.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Well known in Mexico and the United States, chiles rellenos are most often thought of as featuring charred, batter-fried and stuffed fresh poblanos, but dried chiles are also commonly used. Dried poblanos, called anchos, are similar in texture and flavor to dried apricots but with a smoky, slight spicy finish. Soft, pliable and mildly sweet, they can be stuffed without having to be charred and peeled.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Imagine a patty melt, but made at a diner in Mexico. Instead of plain ground beef, you might find a spicy and tangy chorizo patty smothered in a melted blanket of creamy, slightly aged queso chihuahua and topped with sweet and hot caramelized onions, poblanos and serranos. Imagine no more because here it is: a classic, unctuous patty melt reimagined with a Mexican twist. In this recipe, fresh chorizo links made patties that held their shape better than bulk sausage. If you can’t find chorizo links, see the note below for a quick substitute.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Esquites are a Mexican antojito, or snack, sold in local markets and by street vendors across Mexico and the United States. Corn is typically cooked with an herb called epazote, onion and chiles and is served in cups or corn husks and topped with mayonnaise, dried chiles, queso and lime. Here, esquites amps up the corn flavor of a southern-style cornbread stuffing. Half of the corn mixture is added, along with chorizo, to toasted cornbread to make the stuffing, and the remaining esquites is used to top the finished dish. A drizzle of crema and a sprinkle of queso fresco and chile de árbol accent this fun and festive Thanksgiving side.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

These quick tacos use leftover or store-bought rotisserie chicken, and have a satisfying crispy Cheddar frico called a costra (crust) that is common both in taquerias in the northern half of Mexico and in the southwestern United States. In some taquerias, you can order a taco using only the costra as the shell without a tortilla. In this recipe, the tortilla and costra are layered together to wrap a simple but delicious shredded chicken and chipotle filling.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This dish may not exist in Mexico, but its heart is unmistakably Mexican. It celebrates three beloved staples of the cuisine: corn masa, fiery salsa and Milanesa-style fried cutlets. Here, chicken cutlets are coated in a crisp, golden crust made from masa harina and crushed tortilla chips and pan-fried until deeply crunchy. A smoky, just-spicy-enough salsa made with tomatoes and chiles de árbol adds brightness and bite, while a shower of queso cotija brings the salty finish. It’s comfort food rooted in tradition, but reimagined for an easy weeknight meal.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

The joy of eating these doughnuts comes as much from the flavor of the apple and cinnamon in each bite as from the texture – the crunch of the sugar-glazed fried exterior and the soft, pillowy pull-apart pieces of a buttery, yeasted doughnut. One doughnut-shop secret to the perfect apple fritter: use a lot of cinnamon. It is going to seem like a mistake, but fried doughnuts (see Tip) require a lot more apple, cinnamon and salt for the flavor to punch through than if they were baked. The second trick, which achieves that crispy but melt in your mouth texture: chop the dough. It might seem a bit fussy but they don’t have to be exact cuts, you just need ½-inch pieces. The texture will be like monkey bread but in an amazing apple fritter doughnut.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

In Mexico, huevos ahogados (“drowned eggs”) typically refers to eggs gently poached in a vibrant salsa. This version flips the idea into a speedy, satisfying breakfast (or weeknight dinner) by layering crisp-edged fried eggs over cheesy, broiled bolillo toasts and smothering them in a bright, spicy tomato salsa. It's a dish built for flexibility: Use just one serrano for a mild sauce or three for serious heat, and swap in Monterey Jack if you can’t find queso Chihuahua. Finished with creamy avocado and a sprinkle of cilantro, it’s rich, hearty and perfect for sopping up every last bit of salsa.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

These empanadas are very common in the food stalls of the mercados and tianguis (open-air market) in the southern state of Chiapas. A plant native to Mexico, chipilín lends its leaves to stews and salsas, and is mixed into corn masa to make tortillas, tamales and empanadas in the country’s center and south. Adding chipilín to masa lends a subtle herbaceousness that complements the earthiness of the corn. If you can’t find it, spinach, chard or kale makes a great substitute.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Encacahuatados are mole-like sauces made with peanuts, dried chiles, tomatoes and cinnamon. Traditionally, they are served with chicken and prepared for special occasions, like birthdays and holidays. In Xalapa, a town in central Veracruz along the Gulf Coast, encacahuatados are made with pork, whose richness pairs well with the nuttiness of roasted peanuts in the spicy-sweet sauce.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This beloved dish often starts with unsoaked dried beans, which are traditionally cooked in an olla, earthenware pot, or other types of clay pots, such as a cazuela de barro. Any pot works and the seasonings are generally simple — usually onion, garlic, herbs and sometimes lard or pork — but the resulting flavor is rich and complex. A staple throughout Mexico, this dish varies from region to region in the types of beans used and include pinto beans, black beans and Mayocoba beans. Eaten as is as a side or a main dish, frijoles de olla also can be puréed, smashed or refried and used as a sauce or a filling for dishes like tetelas.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This may be the perfect all-purpose sauce — BBQ, marinade, dressing — for your summer cookouts. Tangy and sweet rice vinegar cuts through the spicy richness of gochujang, and toasted sesame seed oil amps up the smokiness you get from the grill. The sauce does double duty in this recipe: It’s used to flavor the pork bulgogi-inspired patties, and it’s used as a dressing for the cucumber, sprout and carrot slaw. These burgers can also be made indoors in a large cast-iron or heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Flor de jamaica is a type of hibiscus flower that is dried and often boiled with sugar and spices to make agua fresca, a sweet-tart beverage found across Mexico. In a savory main, the boiled flowers, which have an almost meaty, mushroomlike texture, are often pan-fried, seared or charred. But here, they’re stewed with dried chiles, cinnamon and sweet potato to make a saucy filling for a gordita — a thick corn patty that’s griddled, split and stuffed.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Gorditas are thicker and heartier than their flat tortilla cousins and are even easier to make. They don’t require a tortilla press and can be shaped simply by patting masa dough flat. Once cooked, they are often split in the center like a pita and filled with stewed meats and vegetables. Their extra thickness helps to absorb guisos, braises, and to hold their structure and shape when they are stuffed with saucier fillings like pork pulled off the bone from encacahuatado de costillas de cerdo. Gorditas also can be served uncut and used like a thick tortilla for swiping through mole negro.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This recipe was inspired by thịt heo nướng xả, the sweet, salty and aromatic grilled pork dish that is popular in many Vietnamese restaurants in the United States. Lean pork steaks cooked over high heat can dry out quickly, but a quick 15-minute soak in a mixture of baking soda and water ensures a moist and juicy steak. Baking soda causes a chemical reaction on the surface of the meat, which makes it more difficult for the proteins to bond during cooking or grilling. This means you end up with tender, not tough, meat. Shoulder steaks work well here because they have more flavor than lean pork chops and can take high heat and a strong marinade better than other thin cuts. Your butcher can cut the steaks for you or you can use thin cut pork chops.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Eggs nestled in a spicy, smoky black bean sauce, huevos enfrijolados are a staple of Mexican home cooking. It’s a quick way to make a meal from what’s already in the kitchen: leftover frijoles de olla, chiles and fresh eggs. In this version, canned black beans are cooked with chipotles and garlic until rich and creamy, then eggs are gently dropped into the simmering beans to poach. Served with crunchy tostadas, queso fresco and avocado, it’s a deeply comforting, pantry-friendly meal that comes together in under 45 minutes — perfect for a weeknight dinner or a quick and hearty brunch.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Mole negro is one of the most striking and complex moles from the state of Oaxaca. The color and flavor come from nearly incinerating the chilhuacles negros, the native dried chiles used for the base. They’re then rinsed and soaked to revive their flavor and to remove the bitterness from the charring. What results is a velvety black sauce that’s traditionally served over roasted poultry, but also pairs beautifully with roasted vegetables and fish.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

The dreamy, moist dessert is surprisingly light and airy thanks to the chocolate sponge cake. Cocoa powder bloomed in hot coffee gives the cake a rich, deep chocolatey flavor. Traditionally, tres leches cakes are made with a vanilla cake soaked with condensed and evaporated milks and heavy cream or whole milk. In this lush chocolate version, we replaced the condensed milk with chocolate hazelnut spread and whisked that into evaporated and whole milks and heavy cream for a big hit of chocolate and hazelnut flavor. The cake gets finished with a delicious and light chocolate hazelnut whipped cream with chocolate sprinkles.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Pastel Azteca, sometimes called budín Azteca, is a baked casserole, similar in structure to lasagna but made with corn tortillas instead of pasta. Softened with salsa and layered with chicken, roasted poblanos, corn, crema and cheese, it’s baked until bubbling and lightly crisp at the edges. It’s a very homey, comforting dish that is typically made to use up extra tortillas, salsa, roast chicken and vegetables. Every Mexican home has its own version shaped by region, budget and family tradition. Children grow up fiercely loyal to the version they were served and those recipes are passed down and adapted to suit their own families. The dish is warm, saucy and deeply comforting and is especially welcome in colder months, when the oven’s heat warms the house and fills it with the aroma of toasted tortillas, roasted chicken and melting cheese. This version features a smoky ancho and chipotle salsa that seeps into each layer, keeping the casserole tender and flavorful, but you can use this

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

The iconic tacos al pastor (shepherd’s style tacos) — made and eaten across Mexico and in the US — are normally made with adobo-marinated pork steaks, flame-kissed on a vertical spit called a trompo and served with grilled pineapple and onion on corn tortillas. In this recipe, which takes advantage of leftover turkey, canned chipotles in adobo evoke the flavor of al pastor’s spicy adobo sauce, while the chipotles’ smokiness mimics the spit-roasted pork. Extra al pastor sauce can be used like a barbecue sauce to flavor cooked shredded meats like chicken or pork, or as a marinade for meat before cooking. For plant-based tacos, toss the sauce with roasted vegetables or brush over raw cauliflower, winter or summer squash, eggplant or mushrooms and roast or grill until charred and tender.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This recipe is a classic pico de gallo preparation with the exception of the inclusion of two types of spicy chiles, jalapeño and serrano. Their flavors are so different: Jalapeños are much more vegetal and can lean into bell pepper and poblano flavors, while serranos are much sharper, crisp and almost cucumber-like. They complement each other very well, and are used in many Mexican salsas. Serve pico de gallo with empanadas de chipilín or on the side with your favorite tacos or grilled meats.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Piloncillo, unrefined whole-cane sugar, is the key ingredient of these richly nuanced cookies. Known as piloncillo in Mexico; chancaca in Chile, Bolivia and Peru; or panela in other Latin American countries, it is commonly used in both sweet and savory dishes and is made by crushing, extracting and boiling down the juice from sugar cane to caramelize the sugars. It adds notes of caramel, butterscotch and molasses to everything from cakes to barbecue sauce. In this cookie, the grated piloncillo complements the bittersweet chocolate and mimics some of the nutty flavor of browned butter, but without any of the work. It is a bit of a chore to grate, but the flavor it adds is well worth it.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Pineapples are grown all along the Pacific Mexican coast and are used in raw salsas as a condiment and in cooked salsas to give a sweet and tart counterpoint to spicy chiles and roasted meats and veggies. Pollo a la piña is a bright and savory dish with a smoky spicy kick from canned chipotle chiles in adobo and tropical sweetness from chopped pineapple and orange juice. This tender and juicy chicken makes a great taco filling. Or pile it on a bun with pickled jalapeños and shredded cabbage for a sweet, spicy and smoky sandwich reminiscent of the best BBQ but without firing up the grill.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This fiery, minimalist salsa proves that even humble kitchen staples — like garlic powder and fresh jalapeños — can surprise you. Simmered until tender, then mashed by hand or blended to a coarse purée, the chiles become the perfect backdrop for garlic powder, which deepens as it sits, taking on a warm, almost toasty edge you’d never get from raw garlic. A short fermentation (if you let it) softens the salsa’s heat and introduces a subtle, tangy complexity (see Tip). It’s a salsa that evolves — bold on Day 1, balanced by Day 3 — making it perfect to spoon over pizza, tacos or anywhere you’d reach for a pickled chile.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Refried beans, a staple of Mexican cuisine, is a flavorful side dish that’s surprisingly easy to make at home. (They’re not really fried twice — “refried beans” is derived from their Spanish name, frjoles refritos, which means “well-fried beans.”) Throughout Mexico, the beans are cooked in freshly rendered lard, which adds a deep, caramelized pork flavor. In this quick recipe, smoked bacon stands in for the lard while chipotle pepper in adobo adds heat, sweetness and a long-simmered flavor that makes canned beans taste homemade. For a meatless version, replace the bacon with half a bell or poblano pepper, and swap the vegetable oil with 3 tablespoons of olive oil. You can easily make a double batch and freeze the leftovers. Store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Mole verde is one of the seven famous moles from the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. There are an almost infinite number of variations on this classic mole — the type of ingredients, the method of preparation, the length of time cooked and what is served with it. But what they have in common is their shade of green, from raw moles that are bright emerald green to the long simmered, charred vegetable mole that has a deep olive hue. This version gets its bright color from the spinach and cilantro, and its tang from the tomatillos with a little heat from the poblanos. It’s served topped with roasted broccoli and chickpeas for a vibrant vegan dinner but would complement a roasted chicken just as easily.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

The buttermilk gives a cheesy-richness and tang that lifts the earthy flavor of the grits and offers a bright contrast to the roasted, caramelized vegetables. It is also a great way to use up that leftover buttermilk in your refrigerator. To make the perfect grits, cook them over the lowest heat and maintain a bare simmer. Whisking and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan every few minutes will ensure that they will not stick and will allow them to cook more evenly. If you like, stir in an extra 2 tablespoons of butter and ¼ cup of grated Parmesan or shredded Cheddar just before serving.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

In Mexican cooking, salpicón is a dish of fish, shellfish or meat mixed with chopped vegetables and tossed in an aromatic dressing. In the Yucatán, salpicones are flavored with sour orange juice and habaneros. In this version, quick-roasted fish fillets are tossed in lime and orange juice to mimic that tropical flavor. The fattiness of the fish and avocado tame the heat of the habaneros, but if you are sensitive to spice, use half of a habanero or look for habanadas, a chile that tastes just as sweet and floral as a habanero but with zero heat! You can serve this dish right away while the fish is still warm, or refrigerate the fish and pico de gallo separately for a few hours — the flavors only get better. Then mix together cold for parties, picnics or a day at the beach.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

This weeknight-fast soup — a common and comforting family meal in Mexico — is easy to prepare and uses ingredients typically stocked in the Mexican kitchen like beans, chorizo and fideo noodles. Puréeing the beans with chicken stock, tomatoes, oregano and spices gives the soup a rich and hearty finish, while bits of broken pasta and spicy chorizo add bite. Toasting the pasta adds a nutty depth to the flavor that, together with the fire-roasted tomatoes and stock, give the impression that this soup has simmered for hours, not 10 minutes.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Chochoyotes, or corn masa dumplings, are commonly added to flavor and thicken soups and guisos (stews) across Mexico. They are also found in mole amarillo, the famous yellow mole from Oaxaca, and added to frijoles de olla because the corn flavor complements the regionally grown beans and herbs. In this soup, a summer vegetable medley, including fresh poblanos, corn and squash, is browned in olive oil to give the broth sweetness from the caramelized sugars in the vegetables. The chochoyotes slightly thicken the soup without any dairy or gluten added and contrast the flavor of the fresh, sweet corn.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Sopa Tlaxcalteca, from the central state of Tlaxcala, is a seasonal chicken soup simmered with ripe local produce like corn, carrots, mushrooms, squash and squash blossoms. What makes it special is the whole milk that is added to the simmering broth. It lends a very slight creaminess that accentuates the sweetness of the vegetables and amps up the richness of the chicken stock. There are many soups in Mexico, but this is easily one of the most comforting.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Tamales are a traditional Central and South American dish of masa, a corn dough, that is filled with meat, vegetables, cheese and seasonings, then wrapped in a corn husk or banana leaf and steamed. They have been around for thousands of years — the Aztec and the Maya people ate them — so there are innumerable delicious variations, but this Mexican version, which is known as rojos de puerco, is filled with braised pork and red chile sauce. Often served at special events like weddings, baptisms, first communions and the like, tamales are particularly important to Mexicans and Mexican-Americans at Christmas time during which tamaladas, or tamale-making parties, are hosted to divide the work, share the food and enjoy each other’s company. For convenience, this recipe calls for masa harina, a dried form of masa that can be found in most supermarkets and is reconstituted with water and fat, but if you can find fresh masa, use it for outrageously good, authentic results.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

A plant-based breakfast or midday snack sold in the streets of Oaxaca, tamales de rajas y queso rival pork- and chicken-filled tamales in their appeal. Unlike their corn husk-wrapped northern cousins, these tamales feature charred banana leaves, which give them a roasted, almost vegetal flavor. The masa is then pressed on top before it’s filled, sauced and wrapped.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

In Spanish, taquitos means “little tacos,” and depending on where you are in Mexico, they can refer to small tacos, breakfast tacos, or stuffed, rolled and fried tacos. If they’re the latter, as in this recipe, medium-size tortillas are typically used, whereas when larger tortillas are used, they are called flautas (or flutes). When choosing your tortillas, freshness is more important than size — they need to be soft and pliable so they won’t crack when rolled. Pick up the bag of tortillas at the store and gently bend the stack; if they are stuck together, stiff or you see any broken edges, they are probably old and will be difficult to roll. Conversely, if there is condensation inside the bag, that generally means the tortillas were packed warm, have a higher moisture content and are likely fresh.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Tetelas, triangle-shaped dumplings, are wrapped with a thin disk of masa and usually filled with a rich and spicy black bean purée. With roots in Mesoamerica, tetelas are thought to have originated in the pre-Aztec culture of the Mixtec people. They lived in the current Mexican states of Oaxaca and parts of nearby Puebla, where tetelas remain popular today. In this version, avocado leaves perfume the beans with hints of citrus and anise, but if you don’t have them, you can use a combination of parsley and tarragon instead. Tetelas can be served alongside a meal like hearty dinner rolls or as a side dish, topped with shredded lettuce or cabbage, salsa, crema, chopped cilantro and onion and a sprinkle of queso Cotija.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Any reservations you might have had about making corn tortillas from scratch will disappear the moment you taste them: warm, soft and chewy, they actually taste like corn. Freshly made masa purchased from a Mexican market or tortilleria will give you the most soulful flavor and texture, but masa harina is a close second that turns out tortillas that are still miles ahead of packaged ones. When mixed with water and salt, masa presses easily into rounds if it’s properly hydrated according to the tips below. A staple of the Mexican table, homemade tortillas are served with most meals the way bread is in other countries. And while outside Mexico, tacos may be their most well-known use, they can be toasted to make tostadas; stuffed, rolled and fried to make taquitos or flautas; or bathed in a chile, bean, tomato or mole sauce to make enchiladas, enfrijoladas, entomatadas and enmoladas.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Tortitas are Mexican fritters that are great as an appetizer or as a meal served with a vegetable side or salad and are always enjoyed with a spicy hot salsa to dip and pour over. They can be made with whatever you like or have: mashed potatoes, shredded chicken, chorizo, sautéed mushrooms, squash, greens. They’re a great way to use up leftovers; just throw them in a bowl with eggs, cheese and flour or bread crumbs and fry them up. These spinach and cheese tortitas are incredibly comforting and come together fast enough for a quick and easy weeknight meal.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

In Spanish, tostada is used as an adjective and a noun to refer to a tortilla that has been toasted on a comal or griddle, crisped in the oven, or in some regions of Mexico, fried until golden brown. Stateside, store-bought corn tortillas are made using preservatives to extend their shelf life, but they can also add a sour taste and smell to the product. This is masked by toasting or frying them, which enhances the flavor of the corn, making them taste more like something you would find in Mexico. Tostadas can be used to hold whatever fillings you want to pile on top, but in this recipe, chorizo and canned beans make a quick meal perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

At the beautifully abundant Mercado Negro in Ensenada, Baja California, the clams, mussels, oysters, shrimp and fish that are for sale each day are highly sought after by locals and chefs. Almost more common than street tacos served there are these tostadas, made in stands that sell towers of fresh, raw seafood tossed with squeezed lime juice and topped with a number of different housemade salsas.

Rick A. Martínez · NYT Cooking

Rotisserie chicken can be a secret weapon when you’re busy. If you have a flavorful salsa on hand, just pull the meat and warm it in the salsa to make a quick tinga. A typical tinga has a guajillo salsa, but don’t let that limit you. A salsa verde, or any chipotle salsa, would be wonderful, and if you use aguacate ahumado salsa, it will create a rich, creamy sauce for the shredded chicken. Homemade bacon-y refried beans offer a comforting contrast.