Recipes

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Chocolate-rum mousse, which ran in The Times in 1966, was a remarkably efficient recipe in two distinct ways. First, it invoked nearly every food trend of its moment: chocolate desserts were an exotic new fix; any respectable grown-up dessert contained rum; mousse suggested that you understood French cooking, or at least pretended to; two cups of cream was de rigueur; and the recipe assumed you owned one of the kitchen’s latest appliances, the home blender. Second, the newfangled blender actually did make the recipe a wonder of efficiency: all you had to do was layer the ingredients and blend, and a dinner-party mousse was yours. Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Just as there will always be a place in the world for an understated but luxurious black dress, there will always be a place for flourless chocolate cake. This recipe from 1969 was one of the first published, long before the cake became fashionable. Today it may be a cliché, but it’s a swanky one. This cake is dense, but not the solid block of sweet that can make you wonder if you’re just eating chocolate ganache in cake form. Of course, since the recipe has so few ingredients, it is imperative to use truly delicious chocolate. The proportion of cacao, in case you’re wondering, should fall between 60 and 70 percent.

Kim Severson · NYT Cooking

Kim Severson

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

While French restaurant and country cooking have been thoroughly examined by American home cooks, somewhere between the two styles lies a branch of cuisine that has been almost entirely missed: France's bar and cafe food. This is the realm of snacks like tartines and rillettes, salads and savory tarts, and one of most delicious of all: the croque-monsieur (literally translated as "crunch sir.") Good croque-monsieurs have a few things in common: a single layer of French ham and Gruyere pressed between two thin slices of bread. Some are filled and topped with béchamel. The bread is brushed with butter, and the sandwich is cooked on a griddle or toasted under a broiler so that the cheese almost liquefies and the bits of ham and cheese hanging out the side fall limp and caramelize. It should be rich, substantial and salty, so you will reach for a glass of wine or beer between bites.

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

This recipe came to The Times from Meg Ray and Caitlin Williams, the owners of Miette Cakes, a bakery in San Francisco. They reimagined a classic booze pie as ice-cream sandwiches, literally a children’s dessert for adults. They replaced the graham-cracker crust with homemade graham crackers, turned the mousse into ice cream and elevated it with a relatively abstemious dose of Cognac. On the surface, it’s a tasty trifle, but there is subtlety too, with a little cinnamon here, some salt there. Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

This recipe appeared in The Times in an article titled “Women Here and There — Their Frills and Fancies” in 1900. It's not meant for salads, but for summer drinks like shrubs. You may halve or quarter the recipe. Use any kind of vinegar you like, and feel free to switch up the berries. If cloudberries are all you have, so be it. You’re also supposed to macerate the berries and vinegar for three days. If you do it for just a day, it will still taste delicious.

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

Like many cooks, I keep a file of recipes I want to try. When I looked through it recently, there were a preponderance of lemon recipes, including one for roasted chicken with lemons and Coca-Cola from Frédérick Grasser-Hermé. Again, the savory and sweet. A food writer who has worked with chefs like Alain Ducasse, Grasser-Hermé is also the wife of the Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé. It humored me that a French cook would deign to baste her chicken with Coke. But it makes perfect sense: like many drinks – wheat beer, iced tea, sangria, Vietnamese sugar-cane juice – Coca-Cola is always improved by a wedge of lemon. Amanda Hesser

Amanda Hesser · NYT Cooking

David Lebovitz's headily spiced cake, which Amanda Hesser wrote about in The Times in 1999, calls for a quarter-pound of fresh ginger. Mr. Lebovitz, who was a pastry chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., has since had a long career as a cookbook author and blogger. But this recipe, from his cookbook “Room for Dessert,” is from relatively early in his writing career. Boldly flavored with just cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and, yes, a lot of fresh ginger, it is simplicity exemplified, coming together quickly and without a mixer. The cake — much like the recipe itself — ages well, its flavors melding and deepening over time. Amanda Hesser

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Think of this as a weeknight chicken confit, cooked low and slow in plenty of olive oil along with sweet carrots and tangy lemon slices. Save that leftover oil and use it to roast vegetables, fry eggs, jump-start a pasta sauce or, of course, cook more chicken.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Poaching boneless, skinless fish fillets in a brothy sauce is a foolproof (and undeniably delicious) method for cooking fish. Here, go for meaty, mild-flavored, firm-fleshed varieties like cod, haddock, pollack, halibut or flounder. This flavorful sauce, made from burst cherry (or other small) tomatoes, sizzled shallots and toasted garlic, definitely has a summery vibe; feel free to substitute a can of peeled tomatoes if the real deal isn’t in season.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

This is the type of scalable recipe that is ideal for feeding large groups of people in a short period of time. More snack than a meal, the idea is to build a table of these lightly spiced, grilled skewers (if you don't like lamb, then pork, beef or chicken all work) and fill out the rest of your table with store-bought ingredients like pickles, olives, yogurt and flatbread for sopping it all up.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Typically used for long braises, short ribs are insanely flavorful and have excellent marbling, which means you can and should cook them as you would a more expensive cut: seared on all sides until medium-rare. To serve, thinly slice the meat and top it generously with a mixture of fresh and charred scallions and tomatillos. Set it out with warmed tortillas and hot sauce for a D.I.Y. taco experience, though it’s also great over a bed of peppery greens or crunchy romaine.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

This is a less saucy, more pasta-salad-like pasta, which is to say it’s best served at room temperature after being carted to an outdoor location and eaten directly from the container. The zucchini mixture should be deeply flavorful and concentrated, rather than loose or watery. If you’re looking for something saucier, add more olive oil (not pasta water) as needed to coat each piece of pasta before serving.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Constructed from layers of soft, spongy sliced bread and tons of juicy, just-cooked fruit, this British dessert gets an update with a layer of barely sweetened whipped cream. It is the best thing since, well, sliced bread. Think of it as somewhere between a layer cake (where you don’t have to bake any cake) and a tiramisù (where the coffee and chocolate is replaced by burst berries and juicy peaches). While the assembly should be a relaxed, messy affair, just be sure to adequately soak the bread so it reads as custardy, not dry.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

If strawberry doughnuts are your thing, then this cake is absolutely your thing. A classic, old-fashioned buttermilk cake with bits of berries strewn throughout, it manages to taste just like your favorite fried treat (without the frying, of course). Be sure to bake the cake all the way through; strawberries have a high water content and tend to make for a soggy cake if not baked properly. The top should be crackly, deeply and perfectly golden brown, and the edges should pull away from the sides of the pan.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Inspired by packed cups of Italian ice, this frozen melon dessert is the best way to enjoy melon (besides eating it fresh). Be sure to season it with enough citrus juice to give some dimension to the melon, which tends to read as simply sweet. Frozen melon can be made two weeks ahead, either scraped or unscraped. (If scraped, store in a resealable plastic container and re-fluff before serving.)

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Part tart, part crumble, this blueberry shortbread is an excellent way to use up as many blueberries as you can get your hands on. The exposed surface allows the fruit to cook down, thickening and getting jammy with just a little bit of flour to help it along. It’s ideal for baking, slicing and bringing to any and all outdoor gatherings, or serving at home with a ridiculous amount of vanilla ice cream.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Unlike most cobblers, which ask you to chop or slice the fruit, this one is meant to preserve the integrity of the apricots, which bake until totally tender, jammy and saucy, while still maintaining their shape and texture. The idea is to spoon out one of the barely sweetened, oaty shortcakes from the pan and then top it with the roasted, honey-sweetened fruit. Ice cream is optional but recommended.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

Crisp, golden-brown toast is the perfect bed for impossibly ripe tomatoes, made even better when topped with saucy, garlicky shrimp. These fully assembled tomato toasts may require a knife and fork to properly tackle, but they are also wonderful eaten with your hands. Keeping the tails on the shrimp makes for a festive presentation, but feel free to remove them so you don’t have to deal with them as you eat.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

This weeknight affair pairs savory pork with a sweet-and-sour mixture of sliced plums and red onions. When a recipe has so few ingredients, it’s important that they be of the highest quality possible. The pork chops here will deliver most of the fat, so make sure they’re well marbled (bone-in loin or rib chops both work). As for the plums, this is one of the rare occasions in which underripe is preferred to perfectly ripe, so they maintain texture after they get briefly tossed in the skillet, and also deliver plenty of acidity for the pan sauce.

Alison Roman · NYT Cooking

There are about a million ways to roast a chicken, and people will always tell you that theirs is the best way. Here is the truth: If you smear a good, high-quality chicken with enough fat, season it with plenty of salt and roast it until the skin is brown, it will always be excellent. But it’s slow-roasting that gives you golden skin, tender meat and plenty of salty, savory chicken juices to serve as a sauce. From the simple assortment of ingredients to the ridiculously hands-off preparation, this recipe from Alison Roman's cookbook "Nothing Fancy" (Clarkson Potter, 2019) is casual in a way that feels almost lazy (but isn’t), with make-sounds-after-you-take-a-bite levels of deliciousness. To truly put it over the edge, add a few anchovies to the tomatoes.