Recipes

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

Admit it: The one dish you really want to grill well is steak. The one steak you should know how to grill is skirt steak. Rich and beefy, it’s relatively affordable and quick to grill. When possible, buy the outside skirt (which comes from the diaphragm) as opposed to the tougher inside skirt (which comes from the transverse abdominal muscle). When in doubt, ask your butcher. Marinating the steak, even just briefly, allows it to soak up flavor while you light your grill.

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

Pulled pork is one of the glories of American barbecue. Unfortunately, smoking a pork shoulder requires a smoker — and a substantial part of the day to cook. What if you could capture some of that sweet, salty, spicy flavor in pork chops that grill in mere minutes? You can, and it comes down to the pit master’s secret weapon: a rub. Four seasonings are all it takes to make a classic barbecue rub, and you may have all of them at hand in your kitchen: salt, pepper, paprika and brown sugar. For extra smokiness, use pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika). As for the pork chops, aim for ¾- to 1-inch thick pieces that are as generously marbled as you can find.

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

Depending on your perspective, a chicken breast can be a bland protein requiring bold external seasonings to make it palatable — but it’s also a blank canvas awaiting your culinary creativity. Either way, it has the advantage of cooking quickly and the disadvantage of potentially drying out on the grill. Enter a simple olive oil, lemon and herb marinade, which adds flavor, keeps the bird moist and doubles as the sauce.

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

South Carolina’s contribution to regional American barbecue is mustard sauce. Barbecue buffs in these parts understand the wonders that mustard can work on pork, how the spice enhances the meat’s sweetness while the acidity cuts through the fat. A good mustard sauce is a study in balance, the bite of mustard and mouth-pucker of vinegar offset by the sweetness of honey or brown sugar. Tradition calls for using ballpark-style mustard, but this recipe instead opts for the finesse of Dijon-style mustard or a grainy mustard. Serve this sauce over smoked, pulled or grilled pork (it goes great with pork tenderloin), smoked or grilled chicken, grilled salmon and other seafood, and why not, whole roasted cauliflower.

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

This mouth-puckering condiment was one of America’s original barbecue sauces, and while a watery mix of cider vinegar, hot red-pepper flakes, salt and pepper may not seem like barbecue sauce to most Americans, North Carolina-style pulled pork just wouldn’t taste right without it. The vinegar counterpoints the fatty pork, while the black and hot peppers crank up the heat. In the western part of the state, ketchup or tomato sauce is often added for sweetness, a practice made optional in this recipe. Some pit masters add liquid hot sauce in place of (or in addition to) red-pepper flakes, while others add water to diminish the vinegary bite.

Steven Raichlen · NYT Cooking

Visit Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Ala., and you’ll find a barbecue sauce unlike any on the planet. Created by a railroad worker-turned-pit master in the 1920s, this piquant mixture of mayonnaise, vinegar and black pepper has accompanied barbecued chicken for five generations of pit masters. If you’re not from Alabama, mayonnaise may sound like a strange ingredient for a barbecue sauce, but its creamy piquancy goes great with smoked chicken, pulled pork and roast beef. Some pit masters like to crank up the heat with some prepared horseradish.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

The American bison that once roamed the Great Plains were considered sacred animals by the Lakota and other people of the region, and served as a critical food source that was celebrated in ceremonies and honored in prayers. According to numbers published by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service, there were 30 million to 60 million bison in North America in the 1500s. By the end of the 1800s, settlers had decimated the population. In the late 1990s, the number of bison in North America had grown again, to nearly 300,000 animals in public herds and on ranches. It’s exciting we now have access to this vitally important meat. When it’s slowly braised, the lean, mild bison becomes fork tender; hominy brings substance and a subtly sweet, nutty corn flavor. Serve this dish alone or pair it with roasted turnips and winter squash. Soaking the hominy overnight before adding it to the pot helps it cook faster, so the dried corn kernels are ready in the same amount of time as the bison. Lef

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

There are quite a few legends within various Indigenous communities involving the three sisters: corn, bean and squash. The ancient and advanced farming techniques from the Cherokee and so many other tribes throughout the East Coast yielded countless strains of these ingredients, in many sizes, colors and flavors. These diverse seeds are not only a direct connection to the past, but a symbol of resistance to the destruction of our cultures. This recipe showcases the simplicity of these flavors and can stand alone as a vegan meal or can accompany bison pot roast, roast turkey or salmon with crushed blackberries.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

A traditional staple on the Pacific Northwest coast, salmon is considered a sacred food. This dish is often slow-roasted on cedar or redwood spikes near an open fire, giving the fish a beautiful smoky flavor. In the kitchen, searing the salmon in a skillet allows the true flavor of wild-caught fish to shine through. Seaweed harvesting goes back countless generations, and so the salty seaweed is a great accompaniment here, along with the sweet local blackberries, a combination that is natural for the Muckleshoot and other tribes of the region.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

Plentiful throughout the Gulf Coast, crawfish and shrimp are Choctaw staples and traditional seasonings like filé, the spice ground from dried sassafras bark, and spicy chiles are a perfect accompaniment. Here, the crustaceans rest on a bed of spicy sweet potatoes, in a dish that calls back to traditional feasts and community gatherings. The sassafras adds a grassy, slightly sour note, and the berries bring more color and tang. You can vary the shellfish depending on the season and your locale in this festive dish, which is easily doubled to serve a crowd.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

Traditionally, this dish, from the Great Plains, would include timpsula, the wild turnip that grows in patches across the region. (Old Lakota harvesting stories tell of how the timpsula point the forager from one plant to the next.) In Lakota homes, the turnips are often braided and dried for use throughout the winter. Unless you live in the region, fresh timpsula is difficult to come by, as it’s not sold commercially. It’s also milder and slightly denser than the garden turnips we’ve substituted in this traditional pairing. The agave glaze adds a touch of sweetness to the vegetables, and the toasted sunflower seeds add crunch. Serve this with bison pot roast with hominy or spooned over wild rice for a comforting vegetarian meal.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

Whole trout makes for a stunning presentation, especially when it is topped with delicate pink roe, which sparkles like gems on top of the fish and imparts a salty, mineral flavor. Trout from the icy Rocky Mountain streams are at their best in late spring, when the ice has just melted. Cooks from the Shoshone tribe, among many others, make delicious meals using the entire fish, wasting nothing: Cheeks and eyes are considered a delicacy, as is the roe harvested from the females, which is prized for its distinct flavor and its relationship to renewal.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

The flavor of heritage turkey breeds is richer and more pronounced than that of commercial turkeys sold at supermarkets nationwide. Put plainly, heritage breeds taste more like turkey. Heritage birds are raised outside, pecking at a varied diet. They tend to have meatier thighs and smaller breasts, and a higher ratio of dark meat to white meat. The Onondaga tribe, among others from the Northeastern United States, would have been able to serve them with forest berries, perking up the rich, dark meat with color and flavor. Sparked with mint, this berry sauce is bright and fruity, with just enough acid to complement the richness of the turkey.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

Based on flavors from the Ohlone tribe, this simple pudding doubles as both breakfast and dessert, and gets its silky texture from chia seeds. Though optional, the wild manzanita berries that grow abundantly throughout California make a wonderful addition to this dish. When the berries are ripe, they turn a burned-red hue and become slightly sticky. The flavor is often likened to sour apple, which adds a nice tang when crushed with milder mixed berries, though any combination of mixed berries lends plenty of acidity. Toasted amaranth seeds gives it all a nutty crunch.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

As delicious simmered until tender as it is popped until puffy and crisp, real hand-harvested wild rice, available from a few vendors online, is unlike any commercial paddy rice. Nutty and woodsy, it cooks in half the time of commercial wild rice and tastes of the piney forests and clear northern lakes. In the Anishinaabe language, wild rice is “manoomin,” or “good berry,” and is served at many ceremonies in the Great Lakes region, from holiday celebrations to weddings and funerals. I often garnish this dish with fresh or dried ramp leaves, depending on the time of year, but chive stems or sliced scallions are a simple substitute. Top with roasted turnips and winter squash or serve with sautéed vegetables, roast meat or pan-seared fish.

Sean Sherman · NYT Cooking

The small tepary beans that grow in the harsh, dry American Southwest are an heirloom variety that has been cultivated and harvested wild by countless generations of Native people in the region. The Diné (more commonly known as the Navajo) seed savers even protected them during the Long Walk of 1864, a brutal forced march to eastern New Mexico, hiding the beans in their clothing. This is an amazing bean that can withstand and even prosper in the most extreme heat and drought. The white variety I use here is slightly sweet and nutty, while the brown variety has an earthier flavor. The combination of white and brown tepary beans is both visual and flavorful, but you could also simply use 2 cups of one variety of tepary bean. Top the beans with roasted turnips and winter squash for a satisfying vegan meal, or pair them with bison pot roast, roast turkey or other meat.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

Where a typical potluck pasta salad is creamy and mayonnaise-rich, this one is vegetable-forward, crunchy and spicy. The heat comes from harissa, a North African paste typically made with red and hot peppers, and spices like coriander, caraway and cumin, which is used to marinate the vegetables and to dress the salad. Offset some of the intensity with mild mozzarella cheese, deeply toasted walnuts and salty bright-green olives, and no one will miss your great aunt’s bowties.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

Eggplant that’s silky-soft and bubbly-brown all over (rather than tough, oily or fossil-like) is a revelation — and, with just a little maneuvering, it’s not that hard. You’ll want to sear the eggplant slices in hot oil, cover them for a minute or two, until they’re soft, and then add a touch more oil until they’re beautifully golden. You could, of course, eat these rounds on their own (and you might!), but spicy almond salsa, cubes of salty, crispy halloumi, and a bed of garlicky yogurt make them a full meal (especially if have warmed pita for swiping everything up). While salting the eggplant slices before you cook isn’t completely necessary, it will help draw out some of the vegetable’s moisture, making it less prone to bitterness and oil saturation.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

Herby noodles, chile oil and crisp tofu come together in this spicy, filling bowl that will disappear before you know it. But the component parts are just as valuable on their own: Make crisp baked tofu once, and you may never pan-fry cubes again. Make a scallion-basil paste on your cutting board, and forget about pesto from the food processor. And make a little extra spicy sesame oil, so that you can swirl it into scrambled eggs and smashed cucumber salads.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

Zucchini’s a tricky vegetable, prone to mushiness. Here, we avoid those pitfalls: By pan-frying planks, you’ll get tender, rich insides with golden-brown exteriors. And when you pair these cooked pieces with delicate raw zucchini ribbons (don’t call them zoodles!) you’ll get just a glimpse of this vegetable’s full potential. A generous handful of arugula, and a bed of farro and chickpeas, fill out the rest of the meal. Cooking the chickpeas along with the farro may seem strange, but it will make the canned beans softer, creamier, and more flavorful than simply dumping them into the salad. For added crunch and flavor in every bite, roughly chop the zucchini noodles and the planks before tossing.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

To make a halved sweet potato into a more substantial side, load it with black beans and sharp Cheddar, then send it back into the oven until the cheese melts and sizzles. Pair it with something a bit lighter, like fish tacos or a green salad, or build it into its own meal by adding sliced avocado, torn cilantro, a squeeze of lime juice, or even a fried egg.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

If you’ve ever thought the somewhat-dull sweet potato could use some punch, try covering it in a layer of salt before you bake it: The salt flavors and tenderizes the skin, leaving a crisp exterior that begs for the cooling tang of sour cream. Leave the potatoes a little damp after you’ve scrubbed them clean so that you’ll have an easier time getting the salt to stick.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

Tender in the middle, with charred ruffles on top, hasselback potatoes — sliced thinly all the way through so that they fan open like an accordion — are the ultimate treat for people who can’t choose between creamy and crisp. In this recipe, the sweet potatoes are halved first, so they cook faster and so their flat sides sear in the hot pan, leaving a caramelized edge. If your spice cabinet is fully stocked, try adding red-pepper flakes, smoked paprika or dried oregano to your garlic-butter mixture. A sprinkling of chopped parsley, right before you’re ready to eat, would also be welcome. Serve these as you would roasted potatoes, like alongside roast chicken.

Sarah Jampel · NYT Cooking

A riff on Josh Ozersky’s famous minimalist hash browns, these are made by sprinkling grated sweet potato over hot butter in a very thin layer, then waiting patiently for the starch to work its magic. Crisp, salty, buttery and addictive, these hash browns are so good, you could probably eat the entire batch in one sitting (or force yourself to be generous and share with a friend). Serve with a fried or over-easy egg for a complete breakfast.