Mouhalabieh (Milk Pudding)
Mastic “tears,” as they’re called, are translucent fragments of tree resin that give off the scent of high, sweet pine. The fragrance is the flavor, suffusing this version of mouhalabieh, a delicate Arab milk pudding, from the French Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan's cookbook, "Bethlehem." Requirements are few: a pot of milk over flame; a whisking-in of sugar; mastic pounded down to a shimmery powder; cornstarch, for firming; and vigilance. As an early recipe in the 10th-century Baghdadi cookbook “Annals of the Caliphs’ Kitchens” warns: “You should never stop stirring.” Mr. Kattan suggests repeatedly tracing the number “8” with a spoon over the bottom of the pot, so the milk won’t scorch. When the mixture is near custard, pour it, still hot, into individual bowls. “It goes from liquid to quite solid in a few seconds,” he says. Let rest an hour at room temperature, then another two or more in the refrigerator, until it wobbles. Ligaya Mishan
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