Preserved Lemon Pasta
While preserved lemons are often used as a background flavor to invigorate stews, soups and salads, they take on a starring role in this zesty and lively pasta. Fresh lemons add brightness, but cured ones bring deep, complex umami to a dish, brimming with heavy floral notes from the tamed peel. While some recipes suggest using the peel only, whole lemons are used here, minced so finely they almost melt into the buttery sauce. The brine is a valuable ingredient too, and incorporating a couple of tablespoons adds tang, further reinforcing the pickled attitude of this dish. You can also use preserved lemon paste, where the whole fruit has been puréed, incorporating it in the same quantity (no brine necessary). While there is no substitute for the deep funky saltiness — or silky texture — of preserved lemon, in a pinch, see the tip below on how to make a quick version.
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