Crab Rangoon
The irresistible combo of crispy, fried egg noodle encasing molten cream cheese has made this snack a finger food mainstay. Though it has roots in mid-century Polynesian-style bars and restaurants, the imitation crab stick-filled fried wonton has been adopted by many American Chinese menus. The chef-consultant Eric Ehler designed the menu at Lazy Susan, a Chinese takeout spot in San Francisco; for his version of the classic dish, he uses Dungeness crab meat and adds scallions and lemon zest for color. As a child, Mr. Ehler loved to dip the fried wontons in egg drop soup, or use them as a scoop for rice. Cathy Erway
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