Alison Roman’s Frizzled Chickpeas and Onion with Feta and Oregano
Alison Roman's recipe for 'frizzled' - a balance of fried and caramelised - chickpeas and onion is a must-make vegetarian dish.
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Anchovy-Butter Chicken with Chicken Fat Croutons
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When people ask me what my favorite thing to cook is, often I’ll give them the most boring but honest answer possible: roasted chicken. In a personal quest for “the one,” I’ve tried a bird every way possible—simple salt-and-pepper birds, spatchcocked and slow roasted, brined, and trussed—but I always come back to this version: smeared inside and out with a salty, garlicky anchovy butter; roasted at a high temperature for brown skin, then low for juicy breasts; stuffed only with more garlic and maybe some herbs; legs akimbo (I have a strict “no truss, no fuss” policy). I’m going to be honest with you: this recipe is almost too much. The sticky juices from the roasted chicken, the caramelized bits from anchovy butter, and the croutons that cook in the skillet and crisp in the fat, well… I mean, it’s really all just too much. Almost. For what other dish would you be tempted to lick a hot skillet?
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This is the type of soup that, at first glance, might seem a little . . . unexciting. But what you’re likely underestimating is the power of mushrooms (naturally high in umami, a fever dream of mixed textures, visually dazzling in all their shapes and sizes), which are doing most if not all of the heavy lifting here. Technically this recipe can be done with all button or chestnut (cremini) mushrooms, but I can’t say it will look or taste as good as it does with a mix of the more exotic types, such as oyster, maitake or chanterelle. The simplicity of this soup means you do have to be vigilant about seasoning (especially if you’re so bravely using water instead of stock), salting, peppering and adjusting with fish sauce as you go. That said, I really enjoy the monk-like restraint of the mushroom-garlic-water magic that occurs (with a fish sauce assist, of course), creating a broth that is delicate and earthy, evoking a very good, robust mushroom tea.