Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Rustic is best when you are trying to make the most of your high-season fruit. Rolling up your sleeves and getting down to what suits the fruit — like a simple crust around lightly sweetened fruit — seems to be the call of the season for bakers who don’t want to mess with a good thing. This croustade is that dish, the one that keeps things easy. A classic French double layer pie, croustade is worth heating up your kitchen on a hot summer’s day and does not disappoint in its beautiful simplicity. The flaky crust holds the sweet-tart fruit and balances it perfectly with its sparkling sugar topping. You might also want to embrace the croustade’s rustic nature and simply serve it with a dollop of crème fraîche, but lightly sweetened whipped cream, crème anglaise or a scoop of speckled vanilla bean ice cream are also perfect additions. This French classic is a hit at any table, bien sûr. Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

There are celebration desserts and then there is the regal yet humble baba au rhum. Arguably one of the greatest human touches ever brought to light in a kitchen was when the first cook glugged booze onto a dry cake or bread to repurpose it. The baba au rhum, from these humble origins, has become a revered version of this glorious technique, and for good reason: It’s an undeniably luxurious, delicious crowd pleaser. This recipe includes a simple, easy-to-make brioche, one that is not too sweet and just crumby enough to absorb a proper amount of sweetened rum (and, if you’re doing it right, a few small glugs of straight rum to finish). Topped with a generous amount of sweetened whipped cream, this cake is simple but elegant and a perfect dessert to both stun your table guests and leave them silly with satisfaction.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Even as New Mexico’s official state cookie and an important Christmas tradition in Hispanic and Latin American cultures, biscochitos might not seem to have anything outlandish or fancy about them, at a glance — that is, until you take a bite. Full of dynamic flavor and a delicate texture that is so pleasant to eat, over and over again (they’re hard to resist), these anise-studded, orange-and-vanilla-scented bites are perfect to package as a gift, to leave out for guests to snack on or to serve alongside cajeta ice cream or a rich butterscotch pudding as part of an important holiday meal. You might also try them alongside your favorite celebration drink, like rompope, ponche or a simple hot chocolate.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Any baking household should have an approachable brioche recipe on hand for all occasions, one that proofs overnight and lends itself to freezing prior to its final rise. A good brioche is soft yet structurally sound enough to be eaten fresh and warm, right out of the oven, or to stay tender even after being toasted a few days later. It will have a developed enough flavor to eat on its own, for savory applications, or to be used as a base for many other stunning sweet breakfast, snack or dessert items, from cinnamon rolls to baba au rhum. With its dough’s ability to be frozen and whipped out with only a final proofing (a rest and a rise to double) needed (see Tip), brioche can be your freezer’s MVP, ready to impress guests or simply to treat yourself.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

The category of chess pie is expansive. By definition, a chess pie is any sweet custard pie made up of eggs, butter and sugar, with something to set it, like flour or cornmeal. This runs the gamut from transparent pie to pies that even include nuts like Kentucky Derby pie. These “sugar pies,” with their basic ingredients, might otherwise fall flat without a bit of finesse. This version, beautifully balanced with buttermilk and a touch of lemon and vanilla to cut the characteristic sweetness, elevates the minimalism in an elegant and well-rounded way. It’s chess pie in its highest form. Some tips for success: Cooling your buttermilk chess pie for several hours is just as important as baking until set with the right jiggle. Baking it in a frozen, homemade pie shell helps create a crust that is both crisp on the bottom and soft against the filling.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

The beauty of a tres leches cake is that it is perennial in its appeal. Cold, light and yet still decadent in the summer, comforting and familiar in the colder months, it is a cake for all occasions and seasons. Don’t be afraid to engage in a little experimentation and play. Adding rum or other seasonings or spices is perfectly acceptable. But don’t skimp on the refrigeration and soaking time. You’ll be glad when your cake is optimally chilled and moist to the core.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

This is an elegant version of an easy Sunday cake – one that can be made early in the morning for eating a warm slice right out of the oven with coffee, and then letting it sit on the counter to enjoy it as a snack cake as the week rolls along. It magically gets better and better each day. It is adapted from Paul Bertolli’s Bitter Orange Cake recipe in his masterpiece, “Cooking by Hand,” which uses blood oranges. Here, a humble navel orange is used for its friendly sweetness. Rubbing some zest into the sugar, adding fennel and vanilla and flexing the charms of its main character ingredient (the orange), this beautifully simple cake becomes a bit deeper in its character. Playing around a bit with the flour, replacing some of the all-purpose with a toasted chestnut flour or by adding a little semolina, as this recipe calls for, makes for a delightful play on flavor, texture and crumb.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Layer cakes are formative for Southerners: They grace wedding tables, shiva gatherings, quinceañeras, baptisms and funerals. Because of this — and because layer cakes may be as close as some will ever get to a holy experience — they’re often called church cakes. This chocolate one is a perfectly moist and stacked rendition of a pudding cake, with just the right amount of richness from the frosting. This formula needs no alterations, but there’s no sense in breaking the tradition of Southern bakers, who personalize recipes as a point of pride. Add pulverized praline to the center, or cinnamon or instant-coffee granules to the batter. Don’t be afraid to make it your own. To make it a true church cake, serve it to those you hold in the highest regard, for celebrations or to simply indulge in the good glory of company.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

This grown-up chocolate pudding, which uses dark chocolate and a luxurious custard base rooted in European techniques, is served in small individual portions and nods to childhood indulgence. Perfect for a dinner party, you can prepare this the morning or day before your guests are to arrive, chill it and you’ll have a perfectly set dessert just waiting to be garnished and served. (Crème fraîche is a perfect accompaniment.)

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Every culture has some kind of basic flatbread. The recipe for this one, originating in New Mexico in the early 20th century, is quick, simple and rustic. You can roll the tortillas out to a thinness or thickness of your preference. For this purpose, keeping them a bit thicker and eating them hot off the comal, with soft salted butter and honey, is a great joy. You can also roll them thinner for tacos, keeping them warm in towels or tortilla warmers until you are ready to use them.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Is there anything more evocative of childhood than chocolate pudding? When dressed up with a salty pecan crust and a fluffy cream cheese layer, that nostalgic lunchbox treat becomes the kind of dessert that is an absolute pleasure to eat and to share. It is great for a crowd, it is fun and easy in its presentation and it is absolutely delicious. Originally made with store-bought whipped cream and chocolate pudding mix, this dessert (sometimes called delight or four-layer delight) deserves to be resurrected from scratch, using freshly whipped cream, rich dark chocolate and toasty nuts, for a new generation to enjoy.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Bright with flavor, dynamic and crisp with a combination of roots and chicory, and fresh with major herb appeal, this is a hearty, friendly, anytime salad that will work well with any grocery or farmers’ market haul. It can easily become a staple in your home: You can make it on Sunday and eat it throughout the week, its flavors changing as it marinates. Because of this, it’s also a salad you can adjust as days go by, adding more lemon here and there, maybe some cheese to change up its flavors after a day or two. Sturdy enough to stand alone as a light meal in and of itself, this lentil salad also makes a fantastic side served with roasted chicken or fish. This is one special and easygoing recipe to have on hand for all occasions.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Fashioned after a traditional French gâteau Breton, the gâteau Basque and even (and maybe especially) the galette des rois — all cakes made of sweet or quick puff dough doubled up and filled with fruit or cream or nuts — this inspired version, uniquely Louisianan and lovingly called gâteau nana, takes inspiration from each. Filled with a pecan cream, this beautiful, simple yet rustic cake was adapted from one developed by Melissa Martin, who was inspired by Nancy Brewer’s version at The Kitchen Shop in Grand Coteau, La. Melissa M. Martin touches upon recipe inspiration in “Bayou” (Artisan, 2024): “Nostalgia drives those of us chasing a specific flavor. Nancy and I both believe in these little things that are so important to a season and a community and how to bake them into dough for celebration.” Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Lemon bars, with their buttery shortbread crust and their tart-as-you-like curd, have become one of the great American desserts ubiquitous to the 20th century cookery canon. These have a little twist with a rich pecan short crust, making them just a bit more well-rounded, the toasty nuttiness serving as a counterbalance to the tart lemon zing. While there are some official notations of its origins in print — most notably in the Chicago Tribune in 1962 — it remains one of those desserts that has seemingly lived in the hearts of modern Americans for as long as we can remember. As a friendly harbinger of spring and a favorite for every summertime cookout or picnic or backyard hang, these bright bites are a great option to make ahead; chilling them overnight makes them easy to cut and sugar right before you plan to serve or carry them to your festivities. For all these reasons and more, lemon bars will likely keep their rightful place as a great American standard for many years to come.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Occasionally, you might find yourself with a surplus of summer berries. This easy cake is perfect for those occasions. The olive oil and lemon are inspired by traditional Italian cakes that offer richness while also feeling light and tender. The berries and the glaze — should you choose to use it — are reminiscent of traditional American pound cakes. This versatile cake-of-all-trades is baked in a cast-iron skillet yet remains soft and delicate in the crumb. It is so versatile that it can be served for breakfast, afternoon tea or as a simple, rustic dessert for a beautiful summer feast.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

The variations of coconut cake in the South are nearly endless and depend a lot on where you live. Pecans make an appearance on occasion. The frostings range from cream cheese to buttercream. Yellow cake layered tightly with custard and topped with meringue is not uncommon either. This version, though, is simple and traditional, and about as delicate and old-fashioned as they come. It is pared down to a soft white cake and a delightful Swiss buttercream that centers the coconut. It’s a perfectly elegant way to celebrate spring and all of the holidays that come with it.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

To make pralines is to show a great deal of love and care for the recipient of these resplendent treats. This incredible tradition should be embraced: They are perfect to wrap in glassine bags and hand out one by one, or place in a tin by the dozen as gifts. They’re also perfect to eat standing up in your kitchen. A nod to the Louisiana gas station treats of yore, this version cuts through the sweetness with a bit of salt and vanilla paste. For Southerners, the pralines feel like a bit of a homecoming in their warm, sweet (with a bit of salty) nature.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Savory and spicy pimento cheese is folded and baked into the most buttery pie dough around. Inspired by a beloved pimento cheese hand pie, this slab pie is made for a crowd and will become a fast favorite for parties. In the spirit of celebration, this dish is wholly about collaboration and combining one perfect recipe with another. Here, the pimento cheese recipe from chef Ashley Christensen is combined with my tried, tested and true pie dough to create something magical. This rich dough uses fraisage, a French technique that involves smearing butter with flour using the palm of your hand, creating a tender, flaky crust. Do not use a machine or a pastry cutter, as your hands are essential to helping you discern the temperature and feel of the dough.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

What’s better than a pan full of freshly made, just-gooey-enough Rice Krispies treats? A core memory for many, it continues to be a fan favorite, whether a packaged gas station treat or a high-end bakery grab like this one. Perfectly balanced with an additional layer of texture from the pistachio and halvah, this recipe comes from Shilpa and Miro Uskokovic, the supertalented pastry chef duo that opened Hani’s Bakery + Café in New York’s East Village in 2024. Their use of tahini brings a level of sophistication, and offsets the sweet bite this snack can often have. There is not a thing that needs altering in this recipe, yet, in Rice Krispie treat tradition, it encourages a bit of playfulness for the cook to make it their own. Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

A perfect dish to ease the transition from summer to fall to winter, this satisfying and comforting gratin can easily be the centerpiece of your meal, served with a bright, plucky salad and some roasted vegetables. As the colder months approach, it can be served more traditionally as a side dish to braised or roasted meat, providing a truly sturdy winter or autumn meal. However you choose to serve it, it brings a sophisticated yet superbly cozy touch to any table.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Fresh produce and deep flavor abound in this vegetarian pozole. This easy and efficiently made soup has all the winning qualities of a salsa verde, and is made in a similar style but includes hearty hominy and an abundance of greens to create a warm, homey and delicious meal. You can use chicken broth or stock if you like, or keep it vegetarian and play around with a homemade caldo de maíz (corn broth) or a richer homemade stock using charred and roasted vegetables instead of fresh. As with many tried and true Mexican soups, this dish is really rounded out by its accouterments. Top it well, eat it slow and let the flavors unfold as you go.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

This cornbread recipe from photographer, documentarian and writer Pableaux Johnson is a simple and rustic standard. Baked in a hot skillet to encourage crispy edges and a substantially toasty bottom, cornbread is traditional to many regions in the South. This recipe was passed down by Mr. Johnson’s grandfather, Achille Leon Hebert from Baton Rouge, La., and it was served every Monday at Mr. Johnson’s legendary red beans and rice community table at his home in New Orleans. It traveled with him across the country on his Red Beans Roadshow, where he collaborated with local chefs and served dozens of communities over the span of almost a decade. Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

There is nothing easier than a seasonal clafoutis. It can be whipped up and baked well before any dinner party, or baked while you host and served warmed with some crème anglaise or ice cream. The true beauty of a clafoutis? Its abundant versatility: Serve it for a humble, only slightly precious breakfast, cold or at room temperature, with coffee. Or serve it with your finest silver for an elegant dessert, with a sidecar of Armagnac. Traditionally done with cherries (pits and all!), it can be made with just about any fruit. But, it is at its finest with sturdy, in-season peaches or plums.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Summer is a soft, or strong, hue of pink in the South, depending on who is making the strawberry cake. When strawberries come alive, anywhere from early March down in Louisiana to as late as June as far up as East Tennessee, Southerners take to their strawberry cakes for as many celebrations as they can. Often referred to as church cakes in the South, layer cakes reign supreme. And strawberry layer cakes take the cake as the most sought-after style for many bakers. This recipe, with a soft and moist but sturdy crumb, uses store-bought preserves, but if you can roast your own high season strawberries, it is recommended you do so. The frosting is light and ethereal. And the color? That is all up to you and how heavy you pour the red food coloring. No matter the shade of pink you aspire to, you’ll get a regal and splendid cake worthy of any high celebration or common weekday luncheon.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

Taking an old recipe and making it new, without compromising its comfort and nostalgia, can be a real joy. Howard Conyers Jr., a legacy sweet potato farmer in South Carolina, did what all good minds do: He got creative with what he had an abundance of. Using his mother Hallie’s carrot cake recipe, he replaced the grated carrots with sweet potatoes, introducing a deep and warm flavor to a classic recipe. The sweet potatoes play well with the spices, bringing in an appealing vegetal note that is a true delight with the cream cheese frosting. This is an easy cake to put together for a lazy Sunday, yet it feels regal and elegant enough for special occasions. Lisa Donovan

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

The friendliest dishes are oftentimes accused of being fussy or complicated. Soufflé has this reputation even though it’s nearly rustic in its ingredients. There are three components to consider when making any good soufflé: flavor, structure and heavenly levity. That airiness is typically what intimidates, but remember that, no matter how close to the heavens you might aspire, even a slightly flat soufflé is a delicious soufflé, and you’ll only get closer next time. The flavor of these vanilla citrus soufflés is both delicate and bright, and while they are light, they provide quite a satisfying bite. The black pepper brings a nice surprise dimension to the vanilla and grapefruit. Rooted in Appalachian traditions, black pepper in dessert is quite special and adds to the mystique dessert.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

These sublime layered beauties come to us from Nashville, where Alex Humbrecht and Zach Halfhill of Guerilla Bizkits, a vegan bakery steeped in punk-DIY ethos, have centered the humble biscuit as a tool for inspired advocacy in their East Nashville community. They developed this vegan recipe in a town that knows a thing or two about a good and proper biscuit. Most biscuit recipes will emphasize the importance of cold ingredients, and here it is pretty crucial for getting the flakiest texture. Tricks like freezing your butter are included in the recipe; don’t be afraid to chill your bowl and your flour as well, and to maybe even pop your oat milk in the freezer for a few long minutes to get it supercold before adding it to the recipe. All of this will help the vegan butter shine, instead of slump, for your final product. As with any baked good, these might take a little practice, but they are well worth the ride.

Lisa Donovan · NYT Cooking

It’s not properly summer until you have too much zucchini in your life, spilling out of your market bags and collecting in your crisper drawer. This recipe takes what might feel like a bumper crop burden and makes it a star of the season once more. Fresh, crisp and bright, this plucky, lemony shaved zucchini and fennel salad is easy to throw together for a lovely summer luncheon or dinner. An incredibly à la minute salad, the vegetables are basically softened in the moment with the salt and the acid, so make sure to serve this salad quickly for optimal texture and taste. While it is crispest and freshest as soon as it’s made, leftovers will be just as lovely, albeit not as crisp, the next day, and can be perked up with fresh herbs or even repurposed: Roughly chop and toss with arugula and cooked chicken for a great, hearty lunch. This is a salad that gives and gives.