Rapid Ragù
When I am feeling fragile and in need of cosiness and comfort, my favourite supper is a helping of minced meat with some grated cheese on top, eaten by greedy, grateful spoonful out of a cereal bowl. I have dispensed with much of usual, necessary chopping: I use cubes of pancetta and a little caramelized onion out of a jar. This is everything you could hope for, sweetly salving and as undemanding to make as it is rewarding to eat. If you can’t get hold of caramelized onions, there’s nothing to stop you cooking an onion in some butter or olive oil very slowly so that they caramelize — similarly, you can dispense with the garlic oil and simply grate or mince a garlic clove or two over the cooked onions — but of course it will then no longer be the rapid ragù of the title.
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