Soupy Rice with Celeriac and Chestnuts
I think of this rather as an autumnal or wintry version of risi e bisi, Venice’s celebration of spring in the form of a pea risotto that is just this side of a soup. It has a certain elegant calm about it. Its flavour is not muted exactly — the sweet grassiness of the celeriac, the fragrant woodsiness of thyme, the richness of Marsala and the warmth of garlic all make their presence lightly felt — but it has a gentleness that feels so very unmodern and so very precious. There is just something quiet and lovely about it that seems to still the air around you as you eat. If you wish to use mushroom stock (either from a cube or made by soaking dried porcini) you certainly can, and if using porcini, fry them, once soaked, along with the leek. This would also make it vegetarian. While simply ditching the cheese and using oil in place of butter — on top of the switch of stocks — would make it vegan (and do check the Marsala is vegan-friendly) — you will need to provide more oomph; I suggest a couple of teaspoons of miso or 2-3 tablespoons of the Burnt Onion and Aubergine Dip. Or roast a whole bulb of garlic as per the directions in the dip recipe and squeeze into the soup at the end. Of all the recipes in Cook, Eat, Repeat, I think that this must be the one I’ve cooked the most. It’s bowlfood at its most exquisitely comforting, and a necessary reminder that beige food can be beautiful — perhaps more to taste than to look at, but that, after all, is what counts. And please read the Additional Information section at the end of the recipe before proceeding.
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