Call me a gaishin (Japanese for ‘foreigner’), but I don’t just adore Japan for its native cuisine, I also secretly love the country for its Italian dishes. I have never been a purist, and the Japanese take on Italian dishes is charming. The tomato sauces are a little sweeter, the creamy sauces have a touch of umami and the pasta has a bounce that could only come from the touch of noodle masters. This dish exemplifies what I love about that fusion of cuisines. The udon is chewy rather than al dente; the sauce is creamy, but with a depth that stops it from getting too rich. And the duck egg adds an unusual hit of gameyness such as that you might expect from a ragu. If you can’t get duck eggs, you can use regular hen’s eggs, but try to make sure you get the type with bright orange yolks. If you don’t have frozen udon, pre-cooked packs work too, but you won’t experience the chewy texture.

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Agedashi Tofu

Bonnie Chung · Tofu Tasty

I would not dream of eating in an izayaka (Japanese pub) and not ordering this dish. For me, it is compulsory. Outside Japan, I still find excuses to order it, or, even better, to make it at home. Agedashi tofu is essentially a crispy deep-fried tofu, served in a seasoned soy-based sauce, with grated radish and toppings such as spring onions and bonito flakes. If you don’t mind deep-frying at home, this is a quick and easy starter or side dish, and incredibly easy to get right.