
Burnt Onion and Aubergine Dip
I get many requests for this decidedly brown dip of silky savouriness, the first recipe in my chapter A Loving Defence of Brown Food in Cook, Eat, Repeat, so creamy that you would never guess it’s actually dairy-free and, indeed, vegan. True, anyone in the habit of changing nappies regularly might not find it the most appetising of sights, but one taste of it — full of rich, deep smokiness — and even those not immediately attracted come back for more. I’ve called it a dip, but actually it lends itself as well to a spread on toast or a sauce for pasta; in this latter case, you’ll need to mix in some of the starchy pasta water when you toss the pasta with it, and I like to add some chilli flakes and a little extra squeeze of lemon, too. But as a dip, it is luscious, and if I have a lot of people round, I serve the Beetroot and Chickpea Dip and the Coriander and Jalapeño Salsa alongside; the pink, green and muted ochre like tonally-tinkered-with traffic lights on the table. But it’s a sensational solo act, so there is no need to add anything alongside save for some tortilla chips (if you can get blue corn ones, I urge you to) or whatever else you want to dip into it. If you don
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