This is the best comfort dish on earth. As a child, cauliflower cheese held this title, but I can still remember Simon making this at Hilaire and wanting to take it away and eat it in a quiet corner. When braised well, the flavour of chicory concentrates and retains a gentle bitterness, which contrasts beautifully with a Comté-heavy mornay sauce. A good Rhône white and a salad and all the boxes are ticked.