Liquorice Nuts
I’m not much given to starters, finding it unrelaxing to have to jump up and clear the table not long after everyone’s sat down to dinner, but I’m a great believer in handing round something to pick at over drinks. And this doesn’t have to be anything fiddly or fancy: frankly, it’s hard to beat a bowl of buttery, spiced nuts. We don’t commonly think of liquorice as a spice, and I agree it’s a risky business flavouring food with such a divisive ingredient without knowing the predilections and prejudices of those who are going to eat it, but here the liquorice offers gentle, aromatic warmth rather than an aggressive punch. You can hardly detect it at first, though the more you eat, the more you can feel it build benignly: even the liquorice-avoidant seem to snaffle these up serenely. I should say that the liquorice powder I found in Amsterdam, which inspired these nuts in the first place, is paler and subtler than the robust dark Calabrian liquorice powder I’ve cooked with previous, but luckily I found one that matches my Dutch find on a British website called spicemountain.co.uk.
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