My first taste of a mango was of a warm, overripe and, I’m now guessing, slightly fermented specimen straight from the tree in the middle of a hot Australian summer. It was an experience I was not keen to repeat. So it came as a pleasant surprise to me that cooked is something well worth considering. When the mango is just cooked and has still not quite returned to room temperature, the heavily caramelised fruit has the texture of a condensed crème brûlée.