Red Roast Quinces
When the two great Australian food writers, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie Beer, came to London some 30 years back, I went to a dinner cooked by them; this was the pudding and I remain, all this time later, transfixed by it. It used to be that you could never lay your hands on a quince unless you had a tree, and so it was that the first thing I did when I bought a house with a garden was plant one, though now you can come across them much more easily when they are in season in October, November and December, though you can often get lucky beyond these months. Nothing matches their almost fantastically perfumed fragrance; and after this long, slow way of cooking them, their acid flesh turns to grainy, intense honeyedness, set to coral jelly at their centre, around the shiny black pips, the whole as darkly sticky as toffee apples. Serve these warm-to-room temperature, with a dollop of cold mascarpone on the side. Do note the long cooking time and make sure you factor that in when you plan to cook them.
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