Pickled Red Cabbage
Soft, sweetly soused, slow-braised red cabbage is one of the great comforts of winter, but its rich intensity – I think of it rather as the vegetable equivalent of goose, which it partners magnificently – disqualifies it from regular rotation. This absurdly magenta pickle is a different matter altogether: its satisfying crunch and enlivening tang make it an everyday delight. It’s barely any work to make and is so much better than the pickled red cabbage that you buy from a shop. I do think it makes a difference using the raw, unfiltered vinegar, which is labelled rather tautologically ‘apple cider vinegar’, but if all you have is regular cider vinegar, go ahead; indeed, any vinegar would work here. I pair the cider vinegar with actual cider but should you need this to be alcohol-free, then just use apple juice in its place. This doesn’t make a huge amount, but it’s a condiment rather than a side dish, and is just the thing with roast pork or other desirably fatty meats; it’s also wonderful with cheese, rich stews, in a burger, taco or a fried chicken sandwich or, indeed, with any leftovers that might need a bit of a zhuzh.
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