Honey on toast is right at any time of day or night. It doesn’t need infusing and freezing into this delicious, comforting ice cream to pass at 10pm on a Thursday when you’re having a difficult week, but sometimes only ice cream will cheer you up. Make this for those times. I once had (untoasted) brown bread ice cream, half chewy with flecks of blitzed, malty wholemeal. It tasted a little like if you froze a bowl of soggy Weetabix, only creamier, and was kind of incredible, but that’s not the sort of bread to bring much pleasure at any time of day. For this ice cream, I suggest a good crusty slice or end of white or wholegrain bread to get all the toasty caramelised flavour from its Maillard-ed outer. If you want to use sourdough, go for a mild one. Bread ice cream is indeed ‘a thing’, from at least the 17th century in England and Ireland, then popping up in Jane Grigson’s English Food as an ice cream that works without churning, even with the traditional custard base. Fergus Henders