Fresh Horseradish Sauce With Chives
Until I was in my mid-thirties, the only horseradish sauce I knew was the one that came out of jar. And while there is certainly nothing wrong with jarred horseradish sauce, the fresh stuff is just a world apart. And it’s even better when it’s crammed with finely chopped chives. I came across the combination in a wonderful Arabella Boxer recipe, as I wrote about in How To Eat, and this is a slight rejig of it. I have specified a whole horseradish root here even though you need grate only 5cm/2 inches (to start off with at least). Should you happen to have a bit of horseradish root knocking about the place, you don’t have to go out and buy (or pick) another one, but you do need enough left on it to be able to have something to grab onto while you grate. And you may well want to grate in more horseradish than I’ve specified; I like this best really strong, and grate more in with abandon. Please don’t think that this sauce’s only use is as an accompaniment to roast beef, heavenly though that is. It’s as wonderful with roast pork or smoked (and, indeed, fresh) mackerel, and I absolutely adore it in a baked potato or with beetroot. And I have lately started eating it as a dip, with blue corn chips, and it is out of this world. Actually, a dollop of this is a great way of zhuzzing up many vegetables, especially roast butternut or sweet potato, and you could easily use oat-milk crème fraiche to create a vegan version. Finally, I don’t think this is worth doing with ready-grated fresh horseradish (not that it’s very easy to find, anyway). If you can’t get a fresh horseradish root, stick to bottled. You do have quite a lot of sauce here, but I always find everyone eats so much more than you’d think. Besides, despite its many delicious applications, I do feel that the recipe has to yield enough for a proper roast beef lunch!
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