Reem Kassis

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Mujadara is one of the most popular dishes across the Levant, with a complex taste that belies its simple ingredients. The mix of contrasting tastes — sweet onions with savory hearty lentils, tender bulgur with crunchy fried onions — is a feast for the tastebuds. The dish is quite forgiving as there is no right or wrong texture. Some people prefer it fluffy like a pilaf while others prefer it more dense, like sticky rice. This version falls somewhere in the middle. Since lentils and bulgur absorb different amounts of liquid depending on variety, check on them periodically, taste and add water as necessary while cooking. The finished dish is equally delicious warm or at room temperature. It is wholesome on its own, but combined with yogurt and served with a chopped salad, bread and olives, it becomes a most satisfying meal.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Maqluba is a traditional Palestinian dish made of rice, meat and fried vegetables, most often eggplants (in summer) or cauliflower (in winter), although some like to combine both, and add carrots as well. There are probably as many variations of this dish as there are families. A very popular, easy version is the one made with only carrots. Although maqluba is usually perceived as a time-consuming dish — you typically make broth, fry all the vegetables, assemble in layers and so on — this version uses a boneless, tender cut of meat, ready-made broth and a single pot. The whole dish is quick, and easy enough that you can make it on any weeknight in under an hour.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Every family has its own way of making chickpea fatteh, but the layers of toasted pita, chickpeas and yogurt sauce always deliver a contrast of creamy and crunchy, warm and cool, sharp and earthy. This version, adapted from Sawsan Daana, the Palestinian chef of Matbakhi restaurant in Kuwait City, includes a layer of hummus in addition to the whole chickpeas, as is typical in Amman as well as Jerusalem, where she was born. Lebanese and Syrian versions skip the hummus and lean more heavily on tahini in the yogurt sauce (see Tip). Whichever route you take, this impressive dish is far easier to pull off than it looks, since the steps are straightforward and many ingredients repeat. If you like, you can prep everything but the toppings one or two days in advance and assemble when ready to serve. Reem Kassis

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

There’s no single way to make eggplant fatteh, a layered dish of crispy pita, tender eggplant and yogurt-tahini sauce that is beloved across the Levant. In this version, adapted from Salam Dakkak, the chef of Bait Maryam restaurant in Dubai, the eggplant is roasted instead of deep fried, a perfectly tasty compromise that requires less cleanup. The contrast of temperatures and textures — crunchy, creamy, hot and cool — makes the dish unforgettable. Fatteh is best served immediately, so the pita chips stay crisp. To make this easier, all components can be prepared ahead, with the eggplant roasted last (or simply reheated) and the dish assembled just before serving. Reem Kassis

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Hashweh means stuffing in Arabic, hence the name of this dish that is used to fill chicken, lamb, pigeon and almost any other poultry or meat that can be stuffed. The combination of warm spices, fluffy rice and tender meat with the crispy, fried nuts is so delicious, it has become a meal in its own right. For a more elaborate presentation, you can top it with shredded chicken or lamb. Whichever way you serve it, you’re in for a real treat, with a recipe so simple it can easily make its way into your weekly dinner rotation. Hashweh pairs perfectly with a salad of finely chopped cucumbers, tomatoes and onions dressed with lemon, olive oil, salt and some dried mint.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

People all across the Arab world make some version of date-stuffed semolina cookies to celebrate both Muslim and Christian holidays. The recipes vary from country to country, even from family to family, as do the spicing, stuffing and cooking methods. But wherever you go, if you are served one of these cookies, you know it’s a call for celebration. This recipe is a Palestinian version in which the dough is fragrant from anise, fennel and nigella seeds. The cookies are also shaped into rings, making them easier to prepare than the ones made with molds or decorated with serrated edge tweezers. While they still require some effort, they keep quite well in an airtight container for several weeks and can be frozen for several months. One bite into the crispy, spiced crust with a soft date interior will make you understand just why they are worth the effort.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

One of the most recognized foods across the Arab world and the Mediterranean, kubbeh has countless variations, and different pronunciations depending on country or even region. Usually made of a bulgur-based shell with a meat, onion and nut filling, the Levantine croquettes are a staple in any feast or spread and a prominent feature on Arab holiday tables across the U.S. The pie form is a substantially easier version that captures all the delicious flavors in a main dish, without requiring shaping individual parcels or deep frying. A garlicky spread like tzatziki or tahini sauce (recipe below) provides the perfect fresh contrast to the kubbeh’s warm, earthy flavors.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Manaqeesh are one of the most popular breakfast foods for Arabs, particularly Palestinians, Lebanese, Syrians and Jordanians — but they’re excellent any time of day. Most often topped with a za’atar and olive oil mixture as they are here, these simple flatbreads are now often found coated with varied ingredients, such as cheese, labneh, pepper paste, eggs and even sweet spreads. But the traditional za’atar still reigns supreme. You can roll the dough out with a pin, but, for the fluffiest and softest version of this flatbread, stretch the dough by hand.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Narjissiya refers to any of several dishes found in medieval Arab cookery books made with sunny-side-up eggs. The word itself means “like narcissus,” a name likely chosen for the dish’s vibrant white and yellow colors, just like the narcissus (daffodil) flower. The ancient variations and ingredients were endless, from meat and broad beans to chickpeas and yogurt, but the choice of ingredients here — and bright flavors — are inspired by spring, and asparagus, which grows wild in the fields of the Levant. The citrusy sumac and olive oil complement asparagus and eggs, but their flavors do stand out, so use the best you can find.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Qatayef are synonymous with Ramadan. It is during this month that bakeries start making the pastry for these stuffed pancakes, and the lines spill into the street as people wait their turn to buy them. Golden underneath and speckled with bubbles on top, qatayef are cooked only on one side. They can be large or small. The large ones are normally stuffed with nuts or cheese and folded over, then fried or baked, and drenched in sugar syrup. The small ones, called qatayef asafiri (or little bird qatayef), are stuffed with a creamy filling, only half closed, then dipped in pistachio and drizzled with thick, faintly floral sugar syrup. The batter is very simple; the key is to make sure it is the right consistency, like that of heavy cream.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Eid al-Adha is synonymous with meat across the Arab world, and, for many, the bonanza starts at breakfast with different braised cuts. Lunch can be more elaborate, with charcoal grilled meats, a whole sheep roast in an underground oven or stuffed lamb. Sajiyeh, a simple Jordanian and Palestinian dish of bite-size pieces of meat, is cooked in a saj pan — which is similar to a wok or cast-iron pan — over a wooden or charcoal grill. Cooking over fire does add a certain smoky aroma, but this version made on the stovetop in a cast-iron skillet very closely approximates the flavor with a fraction of the effort, making it more accessible to home cooks. It is best eaten with saj bread, which falls somewhere between naan and flour tortillas, so either of those would be a good substitute, as would pita.

Reem Kassis · NYT Cooking

Stuffed grape leaves are so prevalent across the Arab world and the Mediterranean that it can seem like there are as many variations as there are families. This recipe is for traditional Levantine versions existing in Palestine, Lebanon, Syria and Jordan, which generally have a warmly spiced beef and rice filling, are rich from being cooked with either meat at the bottom of the pot or chicken broth, and involve stuffed grape leaves that are rolled fairly thin and long. It’s a hallmark of any celebratory or holiday table, and perfect served with a side of plain yogurt. Though they are time-consuming, warak dawali are a very fun project to embark on with family or friends, and leftovers store wonderfully, up to 3 days in the fridge or a couple of months in the freezer.