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Patricia Wells

Food writer

Recipes

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A La Cote Saint-Jacques's Gazpacho With Shrimp And Zucchini Mousse

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Auvergnese Seven-Hour Leg Of Lamb

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

This dish, brought to The Times by Patricia Wells in 1988, came from a cheesemaker near Salers, France. The lamb is cooked long and slow alongside vegetables for several hours. While the dish is called seven-hour lamb, the size of the leg of lamb will dictate the cooking time. Peek in on it frequently, and adjust the liquid as needed.

Serves 8
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Basic Tomato Sauce

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 1
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Baumaniere's Eggplant Gratin (D'aubergines Baumaniere)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Carrots Provencal

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Celery-Root Puree

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Last Thanksgiving, Susy Davidson, food editor of Food & Wine magazine, prepared this wonderful celery-root puree in the microwave oven. This cooking method makes for a richer-tasting puree.

Serves 6
Chestnut Honey Squares
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Chestnut Honey Squares

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

The inspiration for this foolproof recipe came from the Paris bakery Moulin de la Vierge. These honey-kissed squares can be made ahead, do not require exotic equipment, are relatively simple (you pat the crust in the pan) and are beautiful, with a glistening glaze. Stored in an airtight container, they stay fresh for days.

Serves 32
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Financiers Aux Noisettes Chez Vaudron (Vaudron's Hazelnut Cakes)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

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Flaky Sweet Pastry

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

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Flamiche Aux Poireaux (Leek Tart)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Flammekueche (Thin-Crusted Cheese, Onion And Bacon Tart)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 16
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Fresh Pasta and Seafood Salad

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

ALTHOUGH pasta has existed for years in French cuisine - 16th- century French cookbooks offer recipes for ravioli - its importance in the French diet evolved only recently. Today fresh pasta can be found at many cheese shops and charcuteries, while pasta appears on menus all over the country, in many cases replacing the potato as a side dish. In the kitchens at Tour d'Argent pasta is prepared fresh daily, while such restaurants as Rostang and Jamin include ravioli or pasta on the menu throughout the year. At Jules Verne, in the Eiffel Tower, the menu features a warm salad combining fresh fettuccine and sole in a light, creamy dressing, while at La Cantine des Gourmets goat cheese-filled ravioli floats in a rich duck stock, surrounded by slices of rosy duck and chunks of fresh artichoke hearts. This recipe comes from Colette Dejean of Chez Toutone, a small Left Bank restaurant.

Serves 4
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Fried Oysters With Creamy Tartar Sauce

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Golden Cream And Apple Tart

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Gratin Dauphinois Chez Lily Et Gaby (Lily And Gaby's Potato Gratin)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Hostellerie Du Cerf's Salmon With Lentils, Bacon And Horseradish Cream

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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La Bonne Etape's Pumpkin And Almond Tart

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Lionel Poilane's Apple Tart

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Madame Laracine's Gratin Dauphinois (Madame Laracine's Potato Gratin)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Marjolaine Multilayered Chocolate Cake

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 16
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Morels and Comte Cheese On Grilled Toast

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Mousse De Poivrons Doux (Red-Pepper Mousse)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Mussel-And-Spinach Gratin

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Nutmeg-Scented Onion Gratin

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Old-Fashioned Bread-And-Chocolate Rolls

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Pate Brisee (Flaky Sweet Pastry Dough)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Pierre and Michel Troisgros’s Zucchini Chutney

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Piperade (Saute of peppers, onions and tomatoes)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

REGIONAL inspirations and influences have always had their place on French menus, but with an increased interest in vegetables, country dishes such as piperade - a vegetable dish from the Basque region of France - are showing up in various guises. While the classic piperade often appears with scrambled eggs and country ham, Alain Dutournier of Au Trou Gascon of Paris recently served a more elegant molded version as a vegetable side dish to rabbit. The rabbit was sauteed and covered with thin slices of spicy- hot green peppers. Other regional vegetable inspirations recently appearing on Paris menus include cold Proven,cale ratatouille (a blend of tomatoes, eggplant, onions and zucchini) topped with a poached egg (served at Taillevent), and a Ni,coise tapenade (a blend of olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil) spread over roasted porgy fillets (at La Cantine des Gourmets).

Serves 4
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Provençal Leg Of Lamb With Potato Gratin

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Prune And Almond Tart

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Until my move to France, I really didn't feel one way or the other about prunes. But as I've traveled the country, I've discovered the wonders of this rich dried fruit. Something happens to the prunes in this tart as they bake, turning them into almost a sweet, compact candy. Be sure to make a good, strong tea (I used about one tablespoon of loose Earl Grey tea leaves to the two cups of water) for soaking the prunes.

Serves 8
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Prune Custard Tart

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Salad of Shredded Greens and Smoked Salmon (Chiffonnade de Saumon)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

DURING the last year or so, chiffonnades - greens and vegetables cut into thin slivers - have become increasingly popular, as salads appear more often on menus. At Auberge des Templiers, in Beziers, in the Languedoc region, a chiffonnade of watercress and raw mushrooms was paired with tiny marinated red mullet and monkfish. This recipe comes from Christiane Massia of L'Aquitaine. The dressing can be made a day in advance, then refrigerated, but prepare the rest of the ingredients just before serving time.

Serves 4
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Skate Wings With Cabbage And Spring Onions

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 4
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Tarte Au Chocolat Amer (Bitter-Chocolate Tart)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Tarte Au Maroilles (Maroilles Cheese Tart)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Tartelettes Au Citron (Individual Lemon Tarts)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6
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Thin Coconut Milk

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Thin coconut milk Canned or frozen coconut milk may be used for this curry, but it will be thicker and heavier than the milk you prepare yourself.

Serves 3
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Tomates A La Provencale (Baked Tomatoes)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 8
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Tourte Aux Bettes (Swiss Chard Tart)

Patricia Wells · NYT Cooking

Serves 6