Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

The renowned chef Alice Waters makes her aioli in the most inefficient and old-fashioned way possible: using a mortar and pestle to mash the garlic, a fork to whip up the emulsion and no lemon juice, vinegar or any other acid at all. It was the best mayonnaise I've ever tasted, but then again, she did use a wonderfully perfumed olive oil. For this recipe, you should do the same. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

What’s ara yaki? The best scraps of fish left after it has been filleted for sashimi, quickly broiled and roasted, with nothing but salt. You can get it at Seki, an unassuming izakaya in Washington, or you can make it yourself; the key is in the shopping. The beauty of the dish lies in its simplicity: These golden bits of fish are exceptionally delicious, and fun to eat with chopsticks or fingers.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Here, ribbons of raw asparagus are simply dressed with a nutty vinaigrette of toasted sesame seeds, sesame oil and rice vinegar.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This combination of miso and butter is natural and delicious, too. Miso butter looks a little like cake frosting and is just as easy to lick off the fingers. With the egg yolk dripping onto the butter and the asparagus spears dipped into the eggy, miso slurry, you're looking at a four-star dish at a neighborhood restaurant — or at home. Watch our video on how to poach an egg Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This satisfying vegetarian dish is adapted from a recipe belonging to Julie Sahni, the popular Indian chef, cookbook author and teacher. Its preparation is very similar to baba ghanoush in that you roast and mash the eggplant before seasoning it with aromatics, herbs and spices, but its flavor profile is wildly different. Here, turmeric, garam masala and jalapeño add warmth, while the addition of lime juice provides brightness. Serve it as a dip with flatbread (like pita or store-bought roti), or as a main dish with rice and raita. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Throughout Mexico, paletas are made with fresh fruit and not much sugar, pretty much the opposite of commercial sorbets and sherbets sold here. Like sorbet or sherbet, these frozen snacks are easily made at home; all you need is a set of plastic molds, sold in many supermarkets, toy stores and online. For a lower-tech solution, you can use small paper cups and insert wooden sticks in them once the mixture freezes hard enough to support them. The dairy is optional. Adding it produces a paleta de leche, which has a more distinctive texture than the dairy-free paleta de agua, which is icier.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

A huge rib-eye, cooked slowly then quickly – whether on a grill or in the oven – will yield perfectly cooked meat. The cost of the cut may seem like a lot to pay for a piece of meat, but if it’s local and well raised, with better flavor, texture and karma than cheaper commodity beef, it’s worth it for a table of four. You might think sauce is overkill with a rib-eye like this, but playing steakhouse chef means dreaming up the accompanying sauces that you would most like to see on the table. My favorite is what I call ‘‘blue butter,’’ a blend of blue cheese and butter. If blue cheese isn't your thing, try creamed spinach sauce, chile chimichurri, tomato nam prik or bourbon balsamic syrup.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Blue butter – obviously fat on fat – is blue cheese for people who think they don’t like blue cheese: The butter tames the sharpness, and the cheese makes the butter lively and intense. Serve this sauce alongside a grilled rib-eye for a contemporary take on a classic steakhouse cut.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This Mediterranean fish stew is more difficult to spell than to prepare, and it is traditionally neither an idée fixe nor the centerpiece of a grande bouffe, but a spur-of-the-moment combination of the day's catch. Trying to duplicate the real bouillabaisse is an exercise in frustration, as the traditional combination of fish is not found in American waters. But creating an admirable local version is no more difficult than making clam chowder. Though some will argue that bouillabaisse must contain fish stock, any time you add a few pounds of fish to a simmering stew there is enough fish essence to make stock superfluous. If additional liquid is needed, water will do just fine.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Consider this a recipe for a classic steak sauce, updated; that’s bourbon syrup, made with real ingredients in a flash. Sure, you could buy a sauce at the grocery store, but making it yourself is quicker and tastier. Serve it alongside a grilled rib-eye.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Americans are a wing-loving people. The Buffalo variety, by most accounts “invented” at the Anchor Bar in, yes, Buffalo, is the official food of our most sacred event of the year: the Super Bowl. These can be made on the grill or in the oven.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Chop suey may sound like something your grandmother ate in the 1950s, but this version from China Café in L.A.'s Grand Central Market — a chicken stir-fry enlivened with plenty of bright bok choy — is honest, simple and plainly delicious. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Chile chimichurri is an enlivened, updated version of the classic vinegar-and-parsley sauce. Served alongside a grilled rib-eye, the sauce brightens up the dish and makes eating a steak at home feel like you're eating one while out on the town.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

In all of American cooking there is probably no term less meaningful than “salad.” I’m racking my brain for a way to narrow the definition, but the best I can do is a dictionary-like “mixture of food, usually cold or at room temperature, with some kind of dressing.” That’s not saying much, but it opens a world of opportunities, especially when the base ingredient is rice, which offers a far wider variety of flavors and textures than any other grain.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

The standard coq au vin, even when it is made with shortcuts, is a hearty dish, what with its bacon, garlic, deep red wine and enrichment of butter. But the one I like best is made with prunes: it's darker, richer, fuller, the kind of recipe one adores and makes repeatedly. The prunes melt into the wine and become barely recognizable, bringing even more depth, not only of color but of flavor. Despite its relative ease of preparation, this becomes a serious dish, the kind that demands plenty of bread so that you can linger over the juices. Feel free to play with variations here: sauté some sliced button mushrooms, a dozen or more peeled pearl onions or whole cloves of garlic (but don't omit the chopped onions) in the skillet after you've cooked the bacon.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Playing steakhouse chef means dreaming up the sauces and side dishes that you would most like to see on the table. Creamed spinach gives you a classic steakhouse experience in sauce form, and makes the perfect accompaniment to a grilled rib-eye.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Crisp braised duck legs with vegetables is a simple, luxurious dish. You brown the duck until the skin is crackly and golden. You cook the vegetables in some of the rendered fat until they start to soften, then you add chicken stock and cook everything together in the oven until the duck is tender and super-crisp and the vegetables are melting and unctuous. Do not feel bound to the carrots, celery and onion called for in the recipe. Any number of root vegetables – infused with the rendered fat – would be incredible here.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

I suppose crustless quiche is a contradiction in terms, like seared ceviche. But if, like me, you sometimes crave what amounts to savory pie filling without the hassle of making an actual crust, this is the way to go. Once you take the crust out of the quiche you not only radically alter the concept but expand its possibilities. You can produce a “quiche” Lorraine by softening onions (lots) in butter or bacon fat, then adding eggs, cooked bacon and cream or half-and-half, and baking it all as you do in the recipe here.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

The first time I made brownies without my mother was in the late 1960s, using a recipe from Paula Peck, the cookbook writer. Over the years, I tinkered with that and a similar version by Marion Cunningham. As my daughters learned to cook, they experimented a bit further. But we never really strayed from the originals. As long as you keep the flour to a minimum and don't add chemical leavening like baking powder, you will produce a true and beautiful brownie.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This light-on-the-noodles, heavy-on-the-vegetables dish comes together in under a half hour. Lots of fresh ginger and dried Thai chiles provide plenty of liveliness, a perfect counterpoint to the warm earthiness of the dark sesame oil. Never heard of tofu skins? They are the sheets that form on the surface of warmed soy milk, and you can find them in Asian specialty markets. They're tender and egg-y, and like tofu, absorb the flavors of the dish they're in.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

You can use any cut of pork or chicken. The marinade is also good with mackerel or other fish (floured and sautéed or fried before marinating).

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This recipe, adapted from the chefs David Chang and Joaquin Baca of Momofuku Noodle Bar, came to The Times in 2006. Here, the yolk from soft egg bleeds into a bed of grits. A bit of chopped bacon adds smokiness, while the chopped scallion lends brightness. You'll want to use good quality grits here over cornmeal or polenta, as both Mr. Chang and Mr. Baca suggest. The result is luxurious and creamy, without any cream. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

In most cases, rice salads can be dressed not only minutes but hours in advance, making them ideal for entertaining or for just cooking ahead. Cook the rice a bit in advance, and dress it before it gets too cold. (While leftover rice — even from Chinese takeout restaurants — is close to ideal for fried rice, it doesn’t work nearly as well as fresh-cooked rice for salads.)

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This beef stew is loaded with the warmth of soy, ginger, sweetness (best provided by mirin, the sweet Japanese cooking wine, but sugar or honey will do, too), winter squash and the peel and juice of a lemon. These simple and delicious counterpoints make a great stew.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Whether it’s tender and tasty short-grain, astonishingly fragrant basmati or superchewy red, brown and black varieties, rice is one salad ingredient that does not deteriorate when dressed. It absorbs and thrives on the addition of liquids.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This recipe is an adaptation of one found in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s and Mark Bittman's cookbook, “Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef.” Fresh ginger, lime juice and sherry vinegar are the star players in this simple, sophisticated dressing that will make any salad sing. After putting it together, let it rest for a day so the flavors can meld. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This dish comes from the celebrated Italian cook Marcella Hazan. She showed me how to pound lamb chops for her splendid dish, and teased me for not doing it thoroughly enough. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Rich Torrisi developed this intense and terrific recipe for the menu at Dirty French, one of a number of chic restaurants in downtown Manhattan that he runs with Mario Carbone. It is on one hand a simple dish: thin-sliced mushrooms layered with butter and salt, then pressed and chilled until they resemble the French dessert known as mille-feuille, or "thousand leaves." Sautéing a slice of the resulting loaf in a hot pan, and then pairing it with a lovely coulis of fresh tomatoes and herbs? That elevates it to the divine. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

There are those who may not find this sweet enough, and if that’s the case I recommend adding a quarter cup or so of sugar instead of increasing the honey, because you don’t want the honey flavor to become overpowering. Other flavor possibilities to add with the blueberries: any citrus you like; a teaspoon or so of very finely ground coffee or cocoa; or chopped raisins or, I suppose, chocolate chips. I prefer the straight honey-lemon combination, unadulterated.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Orange cake is a terrific dessert to serve after the rich, meaty stews of winter: boeuf bourguignon, short ribs, lamb tagine. The method that Marcella Hazan uses here — poking holes into the cake and letting orange syrup seep in — has a similar effect to brining: what would otherwise be a dry cake becomes flavorful, fragrant, and juicy. And it’s even better than brining, because it always works, takes no time, and also makes the cake last longer. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

My basic technique works like this: Cook the rice as you would pasta, in abundant salted water, tasting as you go; the cooking time will range from around 15 minutes for white rice to as long as 45 minutes for the most stubborn brown varieties (almost all will be done in 30 minutes or so). Drain and rinse; you want to get any remaining surface starch off so the salad isn’t too clumpy. When the rice is cool enough to handle, dress it; it will absorb a bit of the dressing. Add herbs and garnishes just before serving.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

If you're a planner, you can soak and cook dried chickpeas for this easy pasta dish, but if you're not, no worries. Using two or three cans makes it a real cinch; you'll have it on the table in about 20 minutes. First, brown the chorizo or kielbasa and set aside. Toast the bread crumbs in the same pan with a smattering of minced garlic, and set that aside, too. Dump the chickpeas into the pan with a bit of their liquid and let that reduce a bit while the pasta cooks. After draining the pasta, toss it with the chickpeas and sausage, and heat through. Serve it in big bowls with bread crumbs scattered over the top and a few aggressive grinds of the pepper mill. Our favorite pasta shape for this recipe is conchiglie, or shells, because the chickpeas nestle inside like they belong there, but it will work with almost any small cut pasta.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

The pairing of pasta with mint and Parmesan is a good one. There is something about the lightly assaultive yet somehow sweet nature of mint that is unlike any other herb. Older cuisines use it occasionally, but it is rarely seen as a major player. In this dish, however, softened by butter and cheese, mint converts a basic but undeniably heavy combination into an easy yet complex pasta dish best described as refreshing. To the inevitable question, Can I use olive oil instead of butter? my answer is that you can, but you will completely change the nature of the dish; it won't be bad, but it won't be as good. Better, I think, to cut the butter back to two tablespoons. But because this sauce is cut with the pasta cooking water, the butter is spread nicely throughout, and it really isn't a huge amount per person.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Morels are expensive, but a few go a long way and there is nothing quite like them for flavor and texture -- chewy, meaty and that aroma, earthy and exotic. Even at $30 a pound, $7 or $8 seems well worth the price.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

If we're being truthful, this sweater weather recipe should really be called "winter squash and tomatoes with pasta," as the 2 pounds of squash far outweigh the ½ pound of penne it calls for. We think that's a good thing. Every single piece of pasta gets a generous coating of sauce, and there's even some left behind after the pasta is long gone. That's what bread is for.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

It’s not that David Chang, the chef and owner of the Momofuku Noodle Bar in the East Village, doesn't like vegetables. In fact he loves them. He just thinks a little meat makes them better. Even his fish gets the meat treatment. When you look at Mr. Chang's razor clams with kielbasa, you see a dish that, with a couple of exceptions, like the addition of soy and ginger, could have originated in Portugal. Of course that country's cuisine has as much respect for the tradition of including meat in nearly everything as Mr. Chang's own. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Here's an incredibly easy one-pot vegan dish you can put together on a weeknight. For extra oomph, add more jalapeños and garlic, and don't forget to season with salt and pepper as you go. Black, or “forbidden”, rice was used in the photo, but you can also use brown.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

In order to bring out all their flavor and sweetness, you must sauté bell peppers before putting them on this variation of the Pittsburgh-based baker and cook Rick Easton's pizza; but that’s hardly any work at all. (If you like, add a couple of semihot peppers to the mix.) The mozzarella is a nice touch, as is the rosemary, but almost any herb will work beautifully here. Don’t skimp on the olive oil, and don’t underbake the pie; it should be good and brown on the bottom. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Potatoes may seem an odd topping for pizza, but the Pittsburgh-based baker and cook Rick Easton has developed a crust that is so sturdy it can actually support more than its own weight, and these potatoes – boiled until soft, hand-crushed, flavored with olive oil and rosemary and made even more delicious by the addition of mozzarella – are not only traditional, but amazing. Be sure to bake the pizza until it is good and brown on the bottom; take a peek if you’re not sure. See the other variations on this pizza, and experiment freely. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

While this salmon dish evokes pure summer in California, it’s easily done almost anywhere. The salmon is king salmon, and its season is summer, which coincides perfectly with the ripening of figs in all but the northernmost parts of the country. There is nothing better than a good fig, but for this recipe, incorporate the underused leaves, which make a perfect package for the fish, contributing a kind of nutty flavor to it. Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Boil a couple of cups of wine with shallots and butter as quickly as your stove will allow. When the wine is almost completely gone, cook the shrimp in this sauce. The keys to finishing the dish are seasoning and body: it will take plenty of salt and a fair pinch of spice. Serve this with good bread to sop up the sauce.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This relaxed take on the popular New Orleans shrimp stew comes together in about an hour, so you can get a taste of the Big Easy on a weeknight. Just make a quick slurry of onion, bell pepper, ham, parboiled rice, garlic, cayenne, thyme and tomatoes. Let it simmer until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the shrimp, cook for a few minutes, and voila. You're done, cher. Just don't forget to season well with salt and pepper and taste as you go.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Sun-dried tomatoes might scream 1980s nouveau cuisine to you, and that's a fair assessment considering their somewhat profligate use throughout the decade. Yet this dish may have you reconsidering their place in your pantry. Used sparingly, sun-dried tomatoes can impart a bold tomato-y taste that Mark Bittman argues is in some ways “better than ‘real’ tomato flavor.” In this 20-minute sauté, the intense tang of capers and tomatoes plays beautifully off the mild sweetness of shrimp. Serve it over pasta or rice, or alone with a big hunk of good bread.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

This recipe unites those who would become ecstatic when they see a dish of chicken skin on a restaurant menu and those who would flee into the street. The keys to dishes that feature handfuls of dried chiles are one, don't eat the chiles. And two, don't let any of them break open while cooking; each broken one will intensify the heat exponentially. But they're sturdy devils, so this is not that difficult. The browned chiles lend the dish a nearly fiery smokiness, rather than just plain fire. Browning the skin renders its fat, which in turn is used to cook the other ingredients. It's best to stir-fry the ingredients in batches, to brown them nicely, then combine them and build the simple sauce.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

When you raise the lid on a pot of good biriyani, the smell should beguile you: chicken, butter and spices should dominate, followed by the subtle aroma of basmati rice. You might even smell the salt.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Mark Bittman

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Good tomatoes and balance are crucial. You need sugar for the kind of gooey, sticky quality we associate with jam; otherwise, all you’re producing is a tomato sauce, no matter how different the flavor is from the classic. Once you add that sugar, however, you need acid, because even though tomatoes are plenty acidic, they can’t counter all that sugar. I tried lemon juice, vinegar and finally lime, deciding that I liked the last best.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Nam prik, the classic Thai dipping sauce, is made more complex and intriguing with the addition of tomatoes. This version of the sauce is perfect alongside a grilled rib-eye.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

Little or no cooking is one way to keep the kitchen cool in the summer, but if the food you produce is cool (and delicious, of course), that’s a real plus. Cold soups are a common solution. It’s difficult to imagine one simpler than this one, and impossible to imagine one richer and creamier.

Mark Bittman · NYT Cooking

If you seek inspiration for a better pie, you need look no further than a traditional French walnut tart. It is only marginally different, but vive that difference. The reason is butter: butter in the crust and butter in the filling. Oh, and cream in the filling, too. If they had pecans in France I’m sure they would use them, as you could in this recipe.