Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Sonia Ezgulian, the guest chef at Café Salle Pleyel in Paris in 2008, created this burger, a riff on steak tartare. She’s kneaded a mixture of chopped sun-dried tomatoes and tangy cornichons and capers into the ground meat. Parmesan shavings stand in for the usual Cheddar. Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Céline Parrenin, a co-owner of Coco & Co, a two-level place devoted to eggs that opened in St.-Germain in 2007, and her business partner, Franklin Reinhard, invented the Cocotte Burger. The Cheddar cheeseburger, with pine nuts and thyme mixed into the meat, sits on a toasted whole-wheat English muffin pedestal. In a wink at the restaurant’s egg theme and recalling the time-honored steak à cheval, a fried egg is placed on top. Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Shaved steak is not a staple of Mexican cuisine. Most cooks prefer the slightly thicker beef milanesa cut, similar to minute steak. But Memo Pinedo, the proprietor of a restaurant and a food truck in Houston, both called Jarro Cafe, appreciates Angus beef sliced from sirloin for his tacos de bistec. It’s so thin he can cook it in steam coming off a skillet of sizzling onions, tomatoes and jalapeños. Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

The chef Yannick Alléno served a thick, succulent hamburger for his casual Paris restaurant, Le Dali. For those burgers, Mr. Alléno's butcher, Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec delivered a mix of chuck and beef rib. But the butcher thought the American T-bone steak to be the ideal. The T-bone does not exist in France, but to make his point, Mr. Le Bourdonnec made his own. He combined a piece of filet, which is tender but less flavorful, with a piece of contrefilet, which is marbled and tasty, but slightly less tender. Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Here is a quick and easy recipe for making pickles at home. They are good for eating on their own, or for giving a good crunch atop burgers. Jane Sigal

Jane Sigal · NYT Cooking

Jane Sigal