Patrick Farrell

Patrick Farrell · NYT Cooking

A staple of the writer Joan Didion’s holiday menus was a purée of vegetables – beet, turnip or celery root (whose European alias is celeriac). This version, which she clipped from a New York Times column by Craig Claiborne, is a bit chunkier than what you might expect from the name, with a consistency more like mashed potatoes. That’s not surprising, given the major role that potatoes play in the dish. For those seeking a twist on the traditional mash, the celery root adds a subtle celery sweetness. — Patrick Farrell

Patrick Farrell · NYT Cooking

In her memoir “The Year of Magical Thinking,” Joan Didion wrote about learning to make soufflés, one of her signature dishes, while living in Southern California in the early 1970s. “The trick,” she concluded, “was a less strict approach than generally advised.” This autumnal take, from a handwritten and well-stained index card in her files, doesn’t puff up as impressively as a classic French soufflé, but the beaten egg whites lend a gentle lift to the dense sweet potatoes. Their sweetness is nicely tempered by the butter and lemon zest. — Patrick Farrell

Patrick Farrell · NYT Cooking

Joan Didion cooked for a lofty crowd of her fellow literati, but her menus leaned heavily on down-to-earth stews and casseroles. Guests raved about her chicken hash. Her recipe collection, now open to the public at the New York Public Library, includes this variation, which makes a fine post-holiday showcase for leftover turkey and gravy, and resembles the filling of a potpie, topped with Parmesan and baked until golden. Ms. Didion’s recipe suggested serving in two small copper gratin pans, but few cooks today may have them. A shallow baking dish or casserole will do the job. — Patrick Farrell