Six Seasons of Pasta

Joshua McFadden · Six Seasons of Pasta

As with so many classic dishes, ragu alla Bolognese (the parent to this ragu) comes with variants, misconceptions, and many strong opinions. The primary debate is whether Bolognese sauce is a tomato sauce or not. From what I know, “not” is the most accurate answer, though outside of Italy, ragu alla Bolognese has somehow morphed into what might be called “spaghetti sauce,” a very tomatoey sauce with ground meat. Most traditional Italian versions of ragu alla Bolognese focus on the meats, which can include a range—beef, pork, veal, prosciutto. The sauce generally includes finely ground meats and finely chopped soffritto, and the flavor is intense and luxurious. In recipes that include tomato—whether as paste, canned, or both—it is not the principal ingredient. The no-tomato version is often called white or bianco. While I’m all for tradition, I also like to push the edges a bit, which is why this version of white Bolognese, inspired by one made by Australian food writer Odette William